#28【津和野Vlog】SLでゆく山陰の小京都｜紅葉と歴史が織りなす美しい日本の田舎風景

#28【津和野Vlog】SLでゆく山陰の小京都｜紅葉と歴史が織りなす美しい日本の田舎風景

This journey begins at Yamaguchi Station. Board the JR Yamaguchi Line train bound for Masuda. After about 30 minutes, we arrive at our first destination. Located in Ato, Yamaguchi City, this is the naturally beautiful Nagatokyo Gorge. What a picturesque view! Nagatokyo offers seasonal scenery, especially popular during the autumn foliage season. The vibrantly colored leaves stand out against the clear, babbling river. Just outside Nagatokyo Station, there’s a 3-kilometer walking path. While strolling along the path, you can leisurely enjoy the valley scenery. The sound of fallen leaves underfoot and the chirping of birds are soothing, making you truly feel immersed in nature. It’s a serene, sunny autumn day. However, after about 20 minutes of walking, we suddenly realize… What a surprise! The road is closed! There were plenty of hidden spots up ahead, but… oh well. Let’s just turn back. The original Nagatokyo promenade, which leads to Ryugufuchi on the Hagi City side, is approximately 5.1 km long and takes about 100 minutes. Please note that due to a landslide, access is limited to the turnaround point on the short course. I had checked the website beforehand and there seemed to be a sign at the entrance, but I missed it. However, the 40-minute round-trip trek was good exercise, and the scenery around the station was beautiful, so it was worth it. Now, it was time for the main event of this trip: riding the steam locomotive. I had originally booked a ticket from Shin-Yamaguchi Station, the starting point, but since there is only one train per day and the 11:00 departure was a little late for the start of my trip, I decided to take a local train to Nagatokyo first. My heart was beating fast. It was here! The sight of the steam locomotive belching its powerful smoke and blowing its whistle was truly impressive. I had never felt so nervous while waiting for a train, and I was so moved when the steam locomotive arrived that I got goosebumps. Step inside the train and you’ll be enveloped in a warm, retro wooden atmosphere. The interior ambiance and the autumn countryside scenery outside the window further enhance this special journey. This steam locomotive is a special train that runs from Shin-Yamaguchi to Tsuwano in Shimane Prefecture, and it only operates on weekends and holidays. While the express train takes approximately one hour, this steam locomotive runs at a leisurely pace of approximately two hours and 20 minutes. The train stops at Jifuku Station for approximately 10 minutes along the way, allowing passengers to disembark for photography. Seeing the steam locomotive up close is a testament to its power and beauty, and simply observing it warms the heart. Steam locomotives once disappeared from the Yamaguchi Line, but began running again in 1979. Since there are no more steam locomotives in Kyushu, I hope the Yamaguchi-go continues to run forever. The train is back on the road. I’ll keep my commemorative ticket as a memento. I bought a “coal waffle” from the onboard kiosk. It was pitch black. It was delicious, just as expected. Time seems to pass slowly as I let myself be rocked by the train and gaze out the window at the scenery . The occasional sound of a steam whistle echoes through the mountains, adding a touch of the nostalgic San’in scenery. But the train photographers here are amazing—is this a viewpoint? Children and adults alike have shining eyes, experiencing a moment of excitement and quiet emotion not found in everyday life. It’s so comfortable, I feel like I want to ride forever. The scenery of Tsuwano comes into view. This is my first time in Shimane Prefecture, and I’m in Tsuwano, known as the “Little Kyoto of San’in.” It’s a castle town nestled in a small valley, steeped in history and a tranquil atmosphere. I wander wherever my feet take me, wondering what other scenery I’ll encounter in this town. It was a special train journey, allowing me to experience firsthand the past and present, connected by the historic steam locomotive. HELLO TSUWANO! Wow, what a beautiful view. The station building, nestled in the mountains, exudes a warmth that gently welcomes travelers. Just seeing this serene scenery made me feel like my time in this town would be special. First, I decided to have lunch. Located just a short walk from Tsuwano Station, this long-loved local restaurant is a popular choice among tourists, offering Tsuwano specialties in a traditional setting. The restaurant’s unique atmosphere, reminiscent of the past, feels as if time has stood still. I started with a bowl . What’s this? It’s packed with ingredients and looks incredibly delicious! It contains egg, fried tofu, beef, bamboo shoots, fern, enoki mushrooms, and wakame seaweed. You can choose between udon and soba, but I prefer the soba. It’s incredibly delicious! The table and chairs were a bit wobbly at first, making it difficult to eat, but I soon stopped noticing. This area, known as “San’in’s Little Kyoto,” retains the most vestiges of the castle town. This is a very historic seed shop that has been selling seeds and agricultural equipment since the early Meiji period. It’s a traditional townhouse building registered as a national tangible cultural property. Apparently, the fixtures remain exactly as they were back then. Currently, the shop offers products that combine tradition and modern lifestyles, including locally dyed fabrics, pottery, and wooden tableware. The building itself is a tourist attraction and a hub for promoting culture through local craftsmanship. This is a long-established Japanese confectionery shop founded in 1951. I bought a chestnut daifuku and ate it at my lodgings. It was delicious, with a large whole chestnut inside. Leaving Honmachi Street leads to Tonomachi Street, where samurai residences and historical buildings remain. Colorful Nishikigoi carp swim in the moat, a symbol of Tsuwano’s unique landscape. Wherever there are carp, food is always available for sale. When I fed them, the carp flocked together en masse. Interacting with them like this makes walking around Tsuwano even more enjoyable. This is the site of a domain school established in 1786 by Tsuwano feudal lord Kamei Norikane. It is the former site of a school where samurai and children of the Tsuwano domain studied during the Edo period. In the past, various departments, including Confucianism, medicine, etiquette, and martial arts, were held here, and great figures such as Mori Ogai and Nishi Amane studied here. Today, spearmanship and swordsmanship classrooms, as well as the Imperial Library, remain as they were at the time, and visitors can learn about the town’s history through exhibition panels. Enjoy a leisurely stroll through the town while immersed in history. A statue depicting the heron dance, Tsuwano’s traditional performing art. Experience the town’s vibrant traditions and history at a glance. Tomorrow, we’ll take the lift up to the castle ruins atop the mountain. This is the childhood home of Mori Ogai (Rintaro), a literary giant of the Meiji period. The building is designated as a National Historic Site. Ogai spent his childhood here before leaving Tsuwano for Tokyo at the age of 11. His father’s dispensing room, a feudal physician, and young Rintaro’s study room remain intact. The birthplace of literature thrives in this quiet town. It was a very memorable place, allowing me to spend a relaxing time. In the memorial hall next door, I could trace Ogai’s career through his handwritten manuscripts and personal belongings. His works were also on display in the lobby, and I bought one as a memento of my trip. My legs were getting quite tired, but since I was in Tsuwano, I had to go to the shrine. Taxis were few and difficult to catch, so I climbed the stairs. It seemed that an upbound steam locomotive had just departed Tsuwano Station. Looking up from the riverside, its powerful movement seemed even more striking against the tranquility of nature. Let’s go! Summoning my last bit of strength… The greatest attraction of Taikodani Inari Shrine is the countless vermilion torii gates stretching all the way up the mountainside. There are said to be around 1,000 of them, and their vibrant vermilion color reflects off the mountainside, creating a spectacular sight. The scenery soothed me at times, but this was truly a training experience… We arrived… Taikodani Inari Shrine is a famous spot that can be said to symbolize Tsuwano, and is a prestigious shrine that is counted as one of Japan’s five great Inari shrines. Founded in 1781 to protect the Kamei family, the lords of Tsuwano, and to pray for the prosperity of the people, it has since been devoutly revered as an Inari shrine that “makes wishes come true.” I draw my fortune slip. It’s medium luck again… I’m a woman of medium luck. Taikodani Inari Shrine is a place you should definitely walk to if you visit Tsuwano. The view from the summit is exceptional. You can see the quiet valley of Tsuwano and its historic townscape in one panoramic view, making it a very picturesque sight. This is the historic guardian deity that has been watching over this town since the Muromachi period. This is an important place that conveys the town’s traditions and culture through the annual Heron Dance held every July. Returning to the castle town, the tourists are gone and the town is enveloped in tranquility. I head to the station. Then, I head to Masuda for dinner. Masuda is a port town facing the Sea of ​​Japan, known for its abundance of fresh seafood. I believe the train journey is worth it. A 30-minute express train ride from Tsuwano takes me to Masuda Station. The restaurant is a 13-minute walk from the station. This popular local restaurant serves dishes made with fresh seafood caught in the waters off Masuda. The sashimi platter is delicious, with every bite brimming with fresh flavor. The tempura platter’s crispy batter is appetizing. The shirako ( milt) was particularly exquisite, leaving me wanting more. The clam soup and fried tentacle sushi that came with the premium nigiri sushi was a luxurious nigiri that allowed me to fully enjoy the flavors of each ingredient. The fried tentacles were lightly battered and the squid was incredibly tender—the best I’ve ever had. Everything was so delicious I ate way too much, and it was a truly satisfying dinner. Since I had to leave Tsuwano in the afternoon, I decided to shorten my travel time by bicycle. What a convenient way to ride a bicycle! First, I headed to a magnificent temple. Eimyo-ji Temple is about a 10-minute walk (or a 3-minute bicycle ride) from the station. The approach to the temple, lined with trees, is so quiet that just walking there calms the soul. As I walked toward the mountain, I came across the quaint mountain gate, quietly standing at the end of the stone steps. With each step, the air became clearer and the silence deepened. Eimyo-ji Temple is an ancient Zen temple of the Rinzai sect, the family temple of the Kamei clan, the feudal lords of Tsuwano. It is also known as the final resting place of Mori Ogai. The name “Morin Taro” engraved on his gravestone is his real name. It’s said that his final words to a close friend, “I want to die as a native of Iwami, as a Moririn Taro,” were the catalyst for his final resting place in Tsuwano. While he led a busy life in Tokyo, he likely always had thoughts of his hometown, Tsuwano. Opposite his grave is the main hall, standing facing each other in the tranquil air. Eimyo-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 1420 and is one of Tsuwano’s oldest Zen temples. Embracing the mountains, it exudes the atmosphere of a traditional mountain temple. It was my first time seeing a temple with a thatched roof. While not flashy, it exudes the simplicity and warmth of a mountain village temple. I was deeply moved by this temple, and it gave me goosebumps in a good way . The tranquility of the empty space resonates even more deeply. Early mornings are recommended. I think this is a must-visit spot on your stroll through Tsuwano. Located in a corner of a townhouse in the castle town, Komien Kamiyao Tea Shop, a long-established tea shop founded in 1930, is a warm, wooden space that blends a traditional atmosphere with modern elements. It ‘s a lovely shop, perfectly suited to my tastes. Here, you can enjoy Tsuwano’s traditional decaffeinated tea, Zaracha. They offer a variety of blends, each with herbal tea, allowing you to choose while smelling the aroma. I chose the Rose Blend. I also ordered the Zaracha Basque Cheesecake (440 yen). The Zaracha Rose Blend (450 yen) is a beautifully colored herbal tea. Its soft, gorgeous aroma fills the nose, and its slightly sweet taste makes it very easy to drink. The cake is moist and rich, yet has a light aftertaste, leaving a subtle, fragrant aroma. While many sweet shops are popular with young people, this is a relaxing cafe perfect for adults to relax in. The weather was so beautiful and the scenery was so pleasant that I decided to take a short bike ride. It’s a luxurious time to enjoy the tranquil scenery unique to Tsuwano, riding at your leisure. Riding with the wind in your face, the town looks different, offering a different kind of enjoyment than walking. The lift station is about a 10-minute bike ride from Tsuwano Station. A path that would take nearly 30 minutes on foot passes in an instant on a bike. This was my first lift since Amanohashidate, and I’m not particularly good with heights, but it was only six minutes up there and five minutes down there, so I thought it would be easy… but the slope here is steeper, so it’s scary… My hands naturally tightened as I gripped the handrail and camera. The descent would surely be even more dangerous… Well, even if I fell, it wouldn’t be life-threatening…probably. Just before the lift station, there is Demaru, and further in are Honmaru and Sannomaru, but due to time constraints, I only chose Demaru this time. If I miss my scheduled train, the next one will be three hours later…lol. Tsuwano Castle is a mountain castle built during the Eiroku era by Yoshimi Masayori, a warlord of the Sengoku period. The Sanbonmatsu Castle Outer Ring is a highly defensive structure offering a panoramic view of the castle town. It was once stationed there as an outer enclosure to protect the main ring. However, with the abolition of feudal domains and the establishment of prefectures during the Meiji Restoration, it lost its function, and now only the stone walls and remains of the baileys remain. The castle ruins offer a view that will make you want to shout, “Yay!” Looking down, you can see the tranquil autumn scenery of Tsuwano, with its brown tiled roofs and colorful trees. If you’re lucky, you might even see a mystical sea of ​​clouds! My time in Tsuwano was filled with serene air, making it a truly refreshing trip. While my original purpose for this trip was to ride the steam locomotive, the historic townscape and scenery further enhanced the trip’s charm. Wow! I was so scared I couldn’t look down! I couldn’t even let go of the camera and turn it off, so I just looked up at the mountain and endured the fear. Lol I missed lunch, so I bought a bento at the station and ate it leisurely on the train before heading home.

はじめての島根県・津和野。
SL旅で訪れた山陰の小京都は、歴史の面影と自然の美しさがあふれる場所でした🍂
ゆったりとした空気の中で、自分と向き合えるような旅になりました🍁

▶️ Chapter
00:00 Intro

00:57 長門峡 (Chōmonkyō Gorge)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/BBr1JHaXkoAyovHK9

04:08 SLやまぐち号 (SL Yamaguchi)

10:03 津和野駅 (Tsuwano Station)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/gFiuMrMTnm8wZRro8

11:02 御食事処みのや (Minoya Restaurant)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/Pob3qDjmzyAoJdtJ8

12:51 俵種苗店 SHIKINOKA
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/r19CC3V3yZQa8zMn8

13:46 三松堂 (Sanshodo)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/dfcDUBYDqBFd8iGi9

14:11 殿町通り (Tonomachi Street)
📍https://maps.app.goo.gl/qcNNuuSRD5HnksiJ8

15:14 養老館 (Yoroukan)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/LUf8SvUPVZvh6F8dA

16:42 森鴎外旧宅 (Mori Ogai’s Former Residence)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/Jp8iaABfCV8nn7LJ8

18:46 太皷谷稲成神社 (Taikodani Inari Shrine)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/WVtFn5f961cEK11M8

21:09 弥栄神社 (Yasaka Shrine)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/kD3BvKv395L9Mc8Z6

22:24 すし正 (Sushi-masa)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/UhpNw8fj98GEXdWx8

24:43 永明寺 (Eimyoji Temple)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/7DUnH3EGSrLiktQX7

27:54 香味園上領茶舗 KOMIEN
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/wuRtPVyPUnqPJ6py5

30:20 津和野城跡 (Tsuwano Castle Ruins)
📍 https://maps.app.goo.gl/jdKqHsbHZshoXQGv8

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