北海道の国宝を巡る、北東北・北海道ツーリング１日目～３日目[Kawasaki W800 Street]

北海道の国宝を巡る、北東北・北海道ツーリング１日目～３日目[Kawasaki W800 Street]

Yamate-dori, Nishi-Shinjuku gas station. I used a week-long vacation to travel to Hokkaido. I head to Hokkaido on an eight-day journey. For the first two days, I tour North Tohoku. On the first day, I ride the Tohoku Expressway toward Hachinohe. I depart before 7 a.m. to avoid traffic congestion. Shuto Expressway, Nakano-Choja-bashi Interchange. From here, I will travel 600 kilometers on the expressway. While riding on the expressway, I introduce the theme of this journey. The theme of this trip is “National Treasures.” Hokkaido is renowned for its rich natural landscapes, and it is also a fascinating place in terms of history. There are only two National Treasures in Hokkaido. They were designated National Treasures in 2007 and 2023. When hearing “National Treasure,” one might imagine swords or temples, but Hokkaido’s National Treasures are heritage from a much older era. Japan’s history begins in the Paleolithic period, and Hokkaido’s National Treasures date from the Paleolithic and Jomon periods, making them the oldest National Treasures in Japan. My destination is the National Treasures in Hokkaido, but there is a reason I stop in North Tohoku first. North Tohoku is home to the “Jomon Prehistoric Sites in Northern Japan,” inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2021. This is the symbol mark of the sites. On this trip, I visit both National Treasures and World Heritage Sites, while touring famous places across Hokkaido. While I was explaining, I had already completed the 600 km ride. The real touring for this journey begins here. Hachinohe Expressway, Ichinohe Interchange. Today I visit two Jomon archaeological sites. First, I head to the Goshono Site in Ichinohe. National Route 4, Ichinohe Town, Ninohe District, Iwate Prefecture. The site I am heading to is the remains of a settled Jomon village. Reconstructed buildings stand on the excavated dwelling remains. The Goshono Site dates from the latter half of the Jomon period. It belongs to the period when sedentary life further developed. The Goshono Site is close to the expressway exit, and after riding for about five minutes, I arrive. Goshono Site. I pass through an entrance of unique design and cross a bridge. The wooden bridge leads me, as if across time, into the Jomon period. I cross the stylish footbridge and proceed to the reception. A museum is attached to the site. The museum exhibits excavated Jomon pottery. Patterns made with cords are characteristic of Jomon pottery. Some pieces look refined enough for modern use; I find myself wanting one. There are also mysteriously shaped vessels called spouted pottery. Next, I leave the museum to visit the site itself. Reconstructed dwellings stand on the excavated locations. The vegetation from that time has also been recreated within the site. The pit dwellings appear to have roofs covered with earth. I can enter the reconstructed dwellings. Fires are lit regularly, leaving a smoked aroma in the air. Although it was midsummer, I was surprised by how cool it felt inside. Looking up, the light streaming through the gaps in the roof is beautiful. In addition to dwellings, there is a ceremonial area within the site. It is thought to have been used for rituals and gatherings. Walking through it, I am struck by the scale of the ceremonial space. By walking the grounds, I can feel the distances between the homes. It is a place where I can glimpse the lives of the Jomon people. I leave the Goshono Site and head to the next destination. The next site is located near Hachinohe. National Route 4, Ichinohe Town, Ninohe District, Iwate Prefecture. I continue along Route 4 toward Hachinohe. National Route 340, Nango, Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture. North Tohoku has Jomon sites from many different periods, and the next site belongs to the final phase of the Jomon period. Korekawa, Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture. The Jomon period lasted for about 16,000 years, and toward its end, culture and technology further advanced. I manage to arrive one hour before closing. Hachinohe City Buried Cultural Property Center, Korekawa Jomon Museum. The museum entrance is on the second floor. I am surprised by how dark the entrance area is. The exhibition space has the atmosphere of an art museum. Many of the objects are artworks designated as Important Cultural Properties. Some of the spouted pottery, like those I saw at Goshono, are coated with lacquer. There is a substantial number of exhibits to enjoy. The pottery has a quality that is hard to believe is Jomon. Imagining each pattern drawn by hand, I am impressed by their skill. I gain a real sense of the high level of Jomon technology and culture. There is only one thing I found regrettable. This museum houses the “Gassho Dogu,” a National Treasure, but this time it was on loan and I could not see it. I leave the Gassho Dogu as a pleasure for next time and head to my lodging. Aomori Prefectural Route 11, Nakairai, Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture. Although the sun is still high, I have a reason to go to the hotel early. Tonight I am staying in central Hachinohe. Yamabushi-Koji, Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture. The reason appears on the right-hand side. Today is the Hachinohe Sansha Taisai “Hachinohe Nebuta.” I check into the hotel early and go into town to watch the festival. Hotel Imalka Hachinohe. Many people are out on the streets. Decorated floats are pulled along the main avenue. The vivid decorations of the floats are beautiful. Night slowly falls, creating a fine atmosphere. Once the lights are lit, their beauty stands out even more. After the festival, I have a drink and return to the hotel. I rode 680 kilometers today and am exhausted; the beer truly hits the spot. Hoya sashimi, a taste of the sea I always look forward to in Tohoku. I finish with Morioka cold noodles and go to sleep. Hotel Imalka Hachinohe. It is the second day of my North Tohoku and Hokkaido touring. Today’s course is from Hachinohe to Aomori. I visit a Jomon site south of Lake Towada, and the famous Sannai-Maruyama Site. First, I ride through the mountains of Aomori. National Route 454, Naganawashiro Uchifunato, Hachinohe City, Aomori Prefecture. I follow Route 454 toward Lake Towada. National Route 454, Toyomanai, Gonohe Town, Sannohe District, Aomori Prefecture. About 10 kilometers out of town, fields begin to spread out. National Route 454, Shingo Village, Sannohe District, Aomori Prefecture. Entering the mountains, I ride through a series of gentle curves. With little traffic, it is a pleasant road to ride. Akita Prefectural Route 128, Towada-Oyu, Kazuno City, Akita Prefecture. After crossing the mountains, I enter Akita Prefecture. Expansive farmland opens up, giving a sense of freedom. National Route 103, Towada-Oyu, Kazuno City, Akita Prefecture. Descending from the mountains, fields spread out once again. I follow the river toward the town. Akita Prefectural Route 66, Towada-Oyu, Kazuno City, Akita Prefecture. I arrive in the town of Oyu. Here there is a site used for Jomon period rituals. Along a roadside lined with houses lies a Jomon site. Thinking that people lived here thousands of years ago is deeply moving. Historically, this is a late Jomon period site. It is a place where I can observe the matured culture of the Jomon period. Oyu Stone Circle. I pay the admission fee at the reception and request a guide. There are almost no explanations here, so a guide is essential. I learn about how this place was formed. At first glance, it looks like a simple reconstructed settlement, but on closer inspection, many stones have been placed. Stones and pillars arranged in circles form a Jomon period sundial. I can observe the sundial and the huge stone circles. The black stones are actual stones carried by hand by Jomon people. The circles have entrances, suggesting ritual use. There may have been a form of sun worship. The Jomon period experienced several climatic changes. It is understandable that the sun came to be revered. What is intriguing is that, although they did not farm, hunter-gatherers settled here and built large-scale sites. It suggests this was a rich era in which hunting alone could support life. The exhibition space also contains many excellent items. I can observe the transitions in Jomon pottery. Miniature pottery?perhaps prototypes or samples?is charming. The mushroom-shaped pottery makes it enjoyable to imagine its use. The stone circles contain burial remains and also functioned as graves. There is a clear regularity in the placement of stones, and it seems they were carried one by one from a river several kilometers away. With thousands of stones, I can sense the immense effort involved. It is a place that lets me imagine the beliefs and spirituality of the Jomon people. National Route 282, Towada-Kemanai, Kazuno City, Akita Prefecture. I leave Towada and head toward Aomori City. National Route 282, Kosaka Town, Kazuno District, Akita Prefecture. It is about 80 kilometers to Aomori City. National Route 282, Kosaka Town, Kazuno District, Akita Prefecture. Crossing several mountains, I ride toward Hirosaki. Aomori Prefectural Route 12, Nyui, Hirosaki City, Aomori Prefecture. Apple orchards increase; this is Hirosaki. Aomori Prefectural Route 13, Nisofutago, Kuroishi City, Aomori Prefecture. From Hirosaki, I head north toward Aomori City. National Route 7, Sannai-Maruyama, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture. I finally enter Aomori City and approach my destination. This is one of the most famous Jomon sites. As a developed tourist site, it has a large parking area. Sannai-Maruyama Site. It is a vast site, and the museum entrance is impressive. It is the core site and museum of the World Heritage property. The Sannai-Maruyama Site dates from around 3,900 BCE. It is from an earlier period than the Oyu Stone Circle I visited in the morning. Even in the middle Jomon period, the buildings are remarkable. I see the reconstructed remains of the famous large pillar-supported building. Up close, I am struck by the thickness of the pillars. Their size is inferred from the excavated postholes. The building is reconstructed based on those dimensions. Felling trees of this size with stone axes alone is truly impressive. The scale is something I understand only by standing beside it. Reconstructed dwellings are scattered throughout the site. It appears that excavations are still ongoing. The museum exhibits are also extensive. The famous slab-shaped clay figurine from Sannai-Maruyama has a distinctive form. I am amazed by the preservation that even shows woven patterns. There is also a bear-shaped figurine on display, which is quite endearing. I tour the museum until closing and leave fully satisfied. As I must wake early tomorrow, I head to my lodging soon. After dinner, I arrive at my hotel in Shin-Aomori. It is already completely dark outside. Toyoko Inn Shin-Aomori Station East Exit. Although today’s distance was short, I enjoyed very fulfilling sightseeing. Tomorrow I finally cross to Hokkaido, so I go to bed promptly. Toyoko Inn Shin-Aomori Station East Exit. It is the third day of my North Tohoku and Hokkaido touring. I take an early-morning ferry from Aomori to Hakodate. I ride along the eastern coastline of Hakodate, to visit the first of Hokkaido’s National Treasures. First, I head to the ferry terminal. Shinden 3-chome, Aomori City, Aomori Prefecture. It is raining this morning. I ride in a raincoat until I board the ship. Tsugaru Kaikyo Ferry, Aomori Ferry Terminal. It takes five minutes from the hotel to the ferry terminal. I complete the boarding procedures at the entrance gate. Tsugaru Kaikyo Ferry, boarding. On the wet steel deck, I can feel the tires slipping. I board carefully. Departure from Aomori Ferry Terminal. It is a three-hour and forty-minute voyage; I have breakfast on board. After sailing about 100 kilometers north from Aomori, Mount Hakodate comes into view. Disembarkation at Hakodate Terminal. By the time I leave the ship, blue sky is beginning to appear. I first ride through Hakodate toward Esan. National Route 278, Matsukaze-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. The site with the National Treasure is about 70 kilometers from Hakodate. I enjoy the ride as I head there. National Route 278, Nezaki-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. Before long, the national highway becomes a coastal road. National Route 278, Haraki-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. Feeling the pleasant sea breeze, I continue riding. National Route 278, Hiura-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. I turn onto an old section of the road known for its beautiful scenery. The old road passes through a series of narrow tunnels. The tunnels feel as if they might transport me somewhere else. Exiting the tunnel, I am greeted by striking rock formations. Donan Kongo. The rock surfaces are mysterious in appearance. It appears this area was once a stone quarry. It is also an excellent spot for photographing motorcycles. The road runs close to the rocks, offering overwhelming views. The terraced slopes of the rocky hill are quarrying traces, while the vertical grooves are columnar joints formed by cooled lava. Columns of rock extend all the way down to the sea. I am glad to have seen such a unique landscape. I return to the national highway and head for the site. National Route 278, Hinohama-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. After a while, Mount Esan comes into view. Esan is an active volcano where no trees grow near the summit. Rising close to the sea, it makes for a striking landscape. National Route 278, Kinaoshi-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. The eastern side of Hakodate is a mountainous region. Towns are concentrated along the coastal highway. National Route 278, Kawakumi-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. After about two hours from Hakodate, I approach the site. I arrive at the archaeological site that houses the National Treasure. Hakodate Jomon Culture Center (Kakinoshima Site). The museum offers many fascinating exhibits. This is a stone knife shaped so that a cord can be attached. An orca-shaped clay object, somewhat endearing. A burial object bearing the footprints of a young child, a poignant trace across time. I arrive at the display case of the National Treasure. The Hollow Clay Figurine, a National Treasure of Hokkaido. Its form and detailing reveal an advanced level of craftsmanship. The intricate, delicate patterns evoke the clothing of the Jomon people. This figurine was designated a National Treasure in 2007. It is truly worth seeing in person. I also visit the archaeological site beside the museum. It looks like a simple grassy open space, but it is an embankment site. Earth has been heaped up in a U-shaped configuration. Excavations have confirmed it was deliberately constructed. In person, I am surprised to find the embankment taller than I am. I walk along the center at the base of the embankment. The space is vast, leaving me to wonder how it was used. There is another Jomon site a few kilometers away. It is too far to walk, so I move by motorcycle. National Route 278, Toyosaki-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. The next site dates from the middle Jomon period. It is a site from a time when settled hunter-gatherer communities flourished. After riding about five kilometers, I arrive at the neighboring site. Ofune Site. The site lies near the sea, down a gentle slope from the parking area. Here, wooden frameworks are used to reconstruct the remains. I can observe the excavated dwelling pits. Some of the pits are as deep as two meters. The dwelling remains are enclosed by wooden fences. It appears that houses were built repeatedly on the same locations. Because the sea is nearby, whale and fur seal bones have been found. Chestnuts were plentiful, providing both food and building material. While I am looking around, a wild rabbit appears. I wonder if the Jomon people also hunted rabbits. It seems this was such a bountiful place that life here continued for about a thousand years. I was able to visit all the sites I wanted to see today. With time to spare, I take a detour on the way to my lodging. National Route 278, Ofune-cho, Hakodate City, Hokkaido. Tonight’s lodging is reserved near Onuma, north of Hakodate. Hokkaido Prefectural Route 43, Shikabe Town, Kayabe District, Hokkaido. I leave the national highway and enter a mountain road toward Hakodate. Hokkaido Prefectural Route 43, Nanae Town, Kameda District, Hokkaido. After riding for a while on a tranquil Hokkaido-like road, mountains come into view. Nanae Town, Kameda District, Hokkaido. I enter the mountain road; beyond the pass lies Hakodate. Jodai Skyline. Crossing the pass, the view suddenly opens up. From this road, I can overlook all of Hakodate. Seeing a parking area, I stop to take in the view. Jodai Observatory Parking Lot. It is an observation point with an excellent panoramic view. From here I can see Mount Hakodate and Hakodate Bay. I can see the ferry I rode earlier today. The great arc of the Shinkansen line is clearly visible. Just then, a Shinkansen departs from Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station. In about four hours, it will already be arriving in Tokyo. Touring Jomon sites makes me feel how far technology has advanced. I am rewarded with a beautiful view at the end of the day. Having been active since early morning, I head to my lodging, tired. National Route 5, Nishi-Onuma, Nanae Town, Kameda District, Hokkaido. A large lake comes into view on my left. This area is rich in nature and designated as a Quasi-National Park. Hokkaido Prefectural Route 43, Nishi-Onuma, Nanae Town, Kameda District, Hokkaido. I leave the national highway and ride into the forest toward the hotel. Riding along a road filled with the scent of mossy forest, I arrive at my lodging for the day. Hakodate Onuma Prince Hotel. Having woken at four in the morning, I am exhausted. As it is a slightly upscale hotel, the room is spacious. I stroll through the forest and relax in the hot spring. With rain forecast for tomorrow, I go to bed early to conserve my strength. To be continued in the next episode.

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北海道と北東北へ、世界遺産と国宝を見に行ったツーリングです。縄文遺跡を巡るツーリングで、バイクに興味の無い方も旅の参考にして頂ければ幸いです。

タイムチャート
00:00 1日目のコース紹介
00:31 旅のテーマ
02:18 御所野遺跡
05:03 是川縄文館
06:55 八戸の宿へ
08:21 2日目のコース紹介
08:51 大湯環状列石
12:26 三内丸山遺跡
15:23 新青森の宿へ
15:41 3日目のコース紹介
16:10 フェリーで北海道へ
17:24 国道278号の道南金剛
19:12 函館縄文文化交流センター
21:38 大船遺跡
23:09 城岱展望台
24:59 函館大沼の宿へ