Успею до дождя? Через горы к озеру Бива. | Пол-Японии и Кюсю-иссю на велосипеде | Часть 12

Успею до дождя? Через горы к озеру Бива. | Пол-Японии и Кюсю-иссю на велосипеде | Часть 12

Not exactly tourist spots, you know. Nobody wants these, huh? That’s brutal. Feels like a freight train’s coming at you. And here’s the second one. Well. The promised rain is starting. Last year I rode on one side, this year I’ll take the other. Can’t have all sorts of folks like me wandering around. I’m wondering – will it rain or not? My bike’s gonna wheelie at that climb. This is where it’ll get me. But I’ll be camping here tonight. Perfect timing. And Japan all around me. Over there on that far shore. October 29th. Good morning. Chilly today: +12.5°C. Heading toward Lake Biwa now. Probably rain by lunchtime. So I’ll need to bunker down somewhere by the lake and wait for tomorrow. That’s the plan for now. My bike’s got some vines tangled in the wheel. This is cryptomeria growing here. So-called Japanese cedar. Except it’s not actually related to cedar at all. Just what they call it here for some reason. Super common in Japan though. You’ll find it in any forest. Can you hear it in the background or not? The melody from “5 Centimeters Per Second”. There was this scene where the main character enters a conbini and it’s playing. Alright, moving out. Heading north to try circling Lake Biwa from the northwest side. Gotta climb about 300-400 meters there. Might even have to do it twice. Still, should be more interesting than riding where I’ve been before. Weather’s the main thing. Weather’s iffy today too. Forecast says rain around lunch, though they’ve dialed it back. Yesterday they predicted nonstop rain from afternoon till next morning. Now it’s just some drizzle around noon that’ll supposedly stop. So I’ll keep riding. Who knows – mountain weather’s unpredictable… Kinda hate losing elevation. Means climbing again later. But what can you do. Scenery’s getting nice already. Mountains everywhere, this whole vibe. Probably over that pass there. Which one? Right or left? Probably right. Need to head north somehow. Gain about 200m. Eh, we’ll manage. Not my first rodeo. Shinkansen run on this line here. Oh look, one’s coming now. Little white speedster. And another one. Whoa! Two at once! Started off so nice, now a light rain’s beginning. Still light though, can keep riding. Main thing is it doesn’t get heavier. Forecast says rain shouldn’t start yet. Hope this is temporary. Just a passing cloud. Really don’t feel like stopping again. Probably 550kV power lines. So I’ve basically climbed up already. Time to descend. Not too high here though. Whee! Like the wind! Up and down, up and down. There. Rollercoaster. Japanese-style. Back on flatland: rice fields again. Almost at the lake now. Then back into mountains. Probably twice even. Like 200-300m climbs or so. Unless it rains, which it probably will by then. Well, there’s always tomorrow. Forecast removed the rain for tomorrow. Unless they change it again. Graveyard in the fields over there. Not exactly tourist attractions. Off the beaten path, you know. Thankfully the wind’s with me today or at least not against me. At least I’m riding like a normal person. Unlike yesterday crawling at 10km/h against the wind. Main thing here is not to ditch into the canal. Otherwise you’ll be like “hello there” in the bushes. Turn right. At least these canals have stone covers. These ones don’t though. Starting to like it here. Less traffic, more space. And actually kinda scenic sometimes. Turn right. Eh, I’ll turn at the next intersection. There’s another bridge over there. Whoa, that’s a serious fire over there. More Buddhism. Oh, what are those… Whatever they are. Let’s call them birds. Maybe cranes. No idea what this is. Well, must be important. A pagoda. Statues like Buddhists have. Seen these before. Pretty standard. Can’t see inside though. Some 5-yen coins left here. Nothing visible inside. Closed. Good – no reason to leave it open. With all sorts of folks like me wandering around… So Japanese – neat, clean, precise. Let’s keep moving. That way. Before the rain starts. The map’s leading me to some mountain pass. Gotta climb soon. Then lose all that elevation again. Would be nice to keep it, but no choice. Not too bad though, less than 200m I think. Good there’s no rain… should be coming by now… Oh, they’ve marked the “Biwa-ko” route here. “Biwaichi” – cycling path around Lake Biwa. Oh nice! It’s part of Japan’s national cycling routes around Lake Biwa. With all sorts of facilities for cyclists and travelers. Plenty of spots to stop, eat, rest. Well-maintained. Either a marked bike lane. Or sometimes actual separate bike paths. Anyone want a free Japanese toilet? Whole dump of them over there. Probably with all the buttons and stuff. A whole dump! Damn! Where’d they get so many toilets? Like they robbed a toilet showroom. What’s that shooting sound? Someone’s firing over there. Hope they’re not aiming at me. Well, here comes the promised rain. Might need to find a campsite soon. Might not let up today. Main thing is it doesn’t get heavier. Haven’t found a spot yet. Don’t wanna set up in the rain like last time. Then I’ll be soaked all over. Not exactly warm today. Comfortable at 18°C, but not if I get drenched. GPS says go left. Should I? Let me check the map. Yep, GPS is right. That path detours around some distant… Pass, small lake, whatever. I’ll take the shortcut. This way then. Time to climb. Map shows serious switchbacks. Probably some steep sections. Tunnel here. Damn, sounds like a freight train coming at you! From all directions at once – can’t tell what’s happening. Long tunnel – 850m. There’s the lake. Lake Biwa. Let me check the map. Ah, all good. The switchbacks are on the parallel road. I took the tunnel shortcut. Nice – means less climbing. What’s next on the route? Meh, just +/-30m up and down. Let’s go. Should find lakeside camping soon. Better than mountains or fields. Probably rockfall here. They built this for a reason. Riding along the lake. Last year I rode one side, this year the other. Japan’s largest lake. Could ride here for two, maybe three days. So… Ate lunch, stole some electricity from a conbini. Charged my phone. Plotted the next leg along the lake. Over that little pass there. Yeah, somewhere in those mountains. Gotta climb there soon. At least there’s a tunnel. Can even see it from here above the houses. Still wondering – will it rain or not? Should’ve started by now, but nothing yet. Climbing up in this mood. Turn right. About 150m climb total if I remember right. Their signature artwork here too. “Nishi-Azai”. Yeah, “West Azai”. Moving on. Not too steep yet. Still got my granny gear for the tough parts. Getting steeper now. Oh yeah, bike’s gonna wheelie at the top. Holy crap! Alright, granny gear it is. Can’t keep this up for long though. Damn Japanese building roads here… Brutal. Tunnel up ahead. Downhill through the tunnel – easy. 796m long according to the sign. Sidewalk in the tunnel too. Separate tunnels for each direction. Phew! Screw these climbs. Could’ve found a gentler route. Two tunnels, one lane each way. And this massive lane for everyone else. Wish everywhere was this spacious. What’s at the exit? Raindrops at the exit. Time to descend, and probably get soaked. Well, I’ve got supplies: water, food. Could last two days. Thermometer says +17°C. Nice comfortable temperature. Good riding weather if not for the rain. Rain makes it miserable, but dry is perfect. Not too hot for climbing. Not too cold descending either. Oh man, this downhill is sweet. GPS is saying something. I’ll follow the bike markings. Must be safe. Detour via quieter roads. That’s how it’s set. Rather take the fast route than meander. Can bomb down this main road now. Rain’s getting heavier, need lakeside shelter. Should be a good spot around here. Some rest area maybe? Yes! Perfect! Love it! You guys do you. This is home for tonight. Perfect timing – rain’s really coming down now. Navigation off for today. 1:44 PM. All set with this lake view. Whatever, let it pour. Not my problem. Facilities? Toilet? Oh, over there at the park end. Far. Well, can dash if needed. Nighttime bush stops are fine, but not in daylight. Can’t have Japanese thinking foreigners are savages who don’t know restrooms. Guy’s fishing – casting, not reeling. Just practicing. Kinda cozy under this roof actually. Sitting here sheltered. Lake view, park scenery. What more do you need? Not cold. And Japan all around – that’s what matters. Tomorrow this nonsense should stop. Then I’ll ride along that far lakeshore. Over there. About 70km by my estimate. Doable in a day if all goes well. No major mountain crossings left. Kyoto’s getting close. That’s the plan anyway.

Велодорожка вокруг озера Бива. Самое большое озеро Японии. Sekigahara – Nagahama. 47 км.
День 21 (29 октября).

Велопутешествие по Японии. Из Токио до Кюсю и вокруг Кюсю. 8 октября – 27 ноября 2024.
Продолжительность = 50 дней;
Количество участников = 1;
Общее расстояние = 2895 км;
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Отчёт по походу 2023 года: https://forum.awd.ru/viewtopic.php?f=308&t=427989&start=0