If it is just 1mm you can carefully file down the dropouts to get clearance just a quick google search shows lots of threads of people doing this. If it is steel you can never file down aluminum or carbon fiber sorry had to edit that in there lol.
Modify the frame to fit the larger axle? A Dremel-like tool with a burr bit, or something similar? The factory boogered-up the axle dropouts on my no-name bike (discovered at the first tube change, they "pressed" the axle in sideways digging thread marks into the dropout rather than lining up the flats) so I became handy at tinkering with dropout dimensions in order to properly re-seat the axle, it's not too daunting. Since those axle flats already fit the dropout slot correctly, could you just make the slots a little deeper? Yeah, yeah, safety concerns and all that but pretty sure you aren't worried about voiding the warranty on a 7 y/o bike. Cheers!
The most powerful geared hub motors I’ve found that fit 175 mm fat-bike dropouts with a 12 mm axle are the Bafang G062 1000 W and the Bafang G063. Both models are available with either a 14 mm or a 12 mm axle, and for this bike you’ll need the 12 mm version. They’re commonly sold in 5.5, 6.0, and 6.5 windings and usually come with the L1019 connector.
The only vendor I’ve seen offering the G062 with the Z916 connector (which matches your current setup and avoids an adapter) is Area 13 Bikes. They currently list the 175 mm dropout, 12 mm axle, 6.0 winding version for about $299 (unlaced motor).
Anything more powerful than these (e.g., Swifthorse’s MXUS GDR-19 Fat, Hentach 1500 W, or Ghostcat’s XOFO 1500 W) only seem to be available with 14 mm axles.
Grind the notch out for the axle a little deeper and add some pre tensioned torque arms or bolted on torque plates. I had to do this on a fork for my psychocycle front motor. Grind it with a file by hand slowly to not overdo it and to make both sides perfect.
In all honesty, you can’t expect just to drop something like that into a whole different frame without some type of modification required. It really wouldn’t take much effort to make that work
uh – isnt the that type of torque washer have the tab down in the top of the dropout? [think about strength] bottom of a drop out will spread, so weakest point (?)
Id file the drop out to make the axle fit, Then think about a torque plate. – a washer "might" be ok for a weaker motor. (?)
think about the motor size = it will be more torque than a 750 watt, So I kinda added extra torque protection as [in my mind] I could foresee the drop out spreading, being miss shaped by that axle and little torque washer.
mine had 2k motors – the makers used, just torque washers alone. – I added torque plates, just because, I thought extra protection might be good(?) my frame is aluminum, so a little extra protection was added.
I agree with Alex file it out and use torque arms but with all these fast bikes coming out why bother plus it’ll generate so many emails that you have to answer 😂
Wouldn't the controller me largely responsible for the power output of the motor? With a big enough motor and powerful enough controller, you can push any motor to go extremely fast. They may just overheat and get damaged. I'd imagine swapping only the motor over will gain no performance at all.
Please Mr CitizenCycle. Where can I get a charger for the battery of my 2024 wired freedom. Where can I get a replacement. Do bike shops sell them near me?
As others have said, file dropouts to fit. According to the ebike nerds on various forums it's a common mod. The torque washer is probably not relevant, assuming you would be fitting much larger after market torque arms to handle all that power.
Citizen Cycle Bryan is 2025's version of the old motorheads of my youth who would do things like drop a big block V8 motor into a Chevy Vega…..I love it and love this channel!!
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Just swapped out the hub motors that fit used the same wheel
If it is just 1mm you can carefully file down the dropouts to get clearance just a quick google search shows lots of threads of people doing this. If it is steel you can never file down aluminum or carbon fiber sorry had to edit that in there lol.
The wire gauge that you need for the motor is mainly dependent on the amperage. A 52v 1500w motor will still need the larger phase wires and axle.
Modify the frame to fit the larger axle? A Dremel-like tool with a burr bit, or something similar? The factory boogered-up the axle dropouts on my no-name bike (discovered at the first tube change, they "pressed" the axle in sideways digging thread marks into the dropout rather than lining up the flats) so I became handy at tinkering with dropout dimensions in order to properly re-seat the axle, it's not too daunting. Since those axle flats already fit the dropout slot correctly, could you just make the slots a little deeper? Yeah, yeah, safety concerns and all that but pretty sure you aren't worried about voiding the warranty on a 7 y/o bike. Cheers!
The most powerful geared hub motors I’ve found that fit 175 mm fat-bike dropouts with a 12 mm axle are the Bafang G062 1000 W and the Bafang G063. Both models are available with either a 14 mm or a 12 mm axle, and for this bike you’ll need the 12 mm version. They’re commonly sold in 5.5, 6.0, and 6.5 windings and usually come with the L1019 connector.
The only vendor I’ve seen offering the G062 with the Z916 connector (which matches your current setup and avoids an adapter) is Area 13 Bikes. They currently list the 175 mm dropout, 12 mm axle, 6.0 winding version for about $299 (unlaced motor).
Anything more powerful than these (e.g., Swifthorse’s MXUS GDR-19 Fat, Hentach 1500 W, or Ghostcat’s XOFO 1500 W) only seem to be available with 14 mm axles.
Grind the notch out for the axle a little deeper and add some pre tensioned torque arms or bolted on torque plates. I had to do this on a fork for my psychocycle front motor. Grind it with a file by hand slowly to not overdo it and to make both sides perfect.
one thing with torque washers, it's better to put them inside the dropout with the tab facing outwards into the slot
In all honesty, you can’t expect just to drop something like that into a whole different frame without some type of modification required. It really wouldn’t take much effort to make that work
That is what they make grinders for…
File it down, make it fit.
uh – isnt the that type of torque washer have the tab down in the top of the dropout? [think about strength]
bottom of a drop out will spread, so weakest point (?)
Id file the drop out to make the axle fit,
Then think about a torque plate. – a washer "might" be ok for a weaker motor. (?)
think about the motor size =
it will be more torque than a 750 watt, So I kinda added extra torque protection as [in my mind]
I could foresee the drop out spreading, being miss shaped by that axle and little torque washer.
mine had 2k motors –
the makers used, just torque washers alone. –
I added torque plates, just because, I thought extra protection might be good(?)
my frame is aluminum, so a little extra protection was added.
Yes I thought of that many times but I decided to buy the wired bikes myself I've got two of them now
I have been wondering about this for a Rad Mission bike.
I agree with Alex file it out and use torque arms but with all these fast bikes coming out why bother plus it’ll generate so many emails that you have to answer 😂
That's why the dremel tool was invented. As long as there is enough "meat" left on frame, grind notch deeper.
Wouldn't the controller me largely responsible for the power output of the motor? With a big enough motor and powerful enough controller, you can push any motor to go extremely fast. They may just overheat and get damaged. I'd imagine swapping only the motor over will gain no performance at all.
I slept on it! It’s the EAhora P5!! Rear wheel and the motor you want 24 inch wheels like you mentioned
And yes I own one a M2s but will buy a P5!!
Please Mr CitizenCycle. Where can I get a charger for the battery of my 2024 wired freedom. Where can I get a replacement. Do bike shops sell them near me?
As others have said, file dropouts to fit. According to the ebike nerds on various forums it's a common mod. The torque washer is probably not relevant, assuming you would be fitting much larger after market torque arms to handle all that power.
X1 Pro Gen 4 Midrive kit 72 volts is the upgrade for the Radrover
Just buy a great aluminum File and fix the slot by lengthening
Is the bolt pattern the same on both motors? Is it possible to swap the insides?
Please you ride aipas m2 pro bike colour meteorite grey
Make your Rad a roadster. Powder coat it and add a sidecar!
Citizen Cycle Bryan is 2025's version of the old motorheads of my youth who would do things like drop a big block V8 motor into a Chevy Vega…..I love it and love this channel!!