五島列島・福江島】夕方のサビキ釣りと、台風級の大雨の中で見たものたち
So, last time we talked about heading from Narita to Hakata with LCC Peach This is when we headed towards the Goto Islands from there Don’t make a mistake It’s when we went to Terminal 3, then to Terminal 1, and became Peach I was surprised that the airplane seat wasn’t sticky And from Hakata, I went to Nagasaki via Takeo Onsen Takeo Onsen After soaking in the hot springs that have been around for 1600 years, it was already around 6 o’clock when we arrived in Nagasaki The museum at Dejima is open After visiting Dejima, I learned about something called multi-trade It’s like the story of the straw millionaire, where you trade and end up bringing back a lot of spices The next day, I rented a bicycle in the Goto Islands This way, I can see nice views and visit geo-parks where I can do telework I’m tired, so I came back in the evening without running too much It all starts from saying that I’m going fishing with a rental rod I received a fishing gear set for sabiki fishing I think it was around 1500 yen, so that’s that I was told by the store staff, just in case I have arrived at the location There seems to be about one person fishing, right? Is it a jet engine? Is there a jet engine attached to the roof? Are they saying they’re going to set up for sabiki fishing? Watching the jet foil after it has taken off I’m going to take off this hook for sabiki fishing There are a lot of hooks, about six of them, right? And there’s a basket below to put the bait in The ferry is going back and forth I wondered if the intense traffic of boats might be attracting the fish There are a lot of small horse mackerels gathering Yes, they say there are horse mackerels gathering, but this isn’t horse mackerel The monkfish is a pink fish, you see There are a lot of them swarming around It’s a pretty small goldfish, like the ones you see at a festival There are a lot of fish that size swimming around There are fish, you know A lot, right? Well, um, yes, it’s me who… This is the ferry heading to Nagasaki It’s small, but I caught my first fish in the Goto Islands It’s not a horse mackerel, is it? It’s really tiny, though It’s like déjà vu; I’m catching the same fish over and over again It seems like it’s a type of fish that weakens quite easily It spoils pretty quickly, doesn’t it? I just asked at the fishing tackle shop, and they said it’s called a ‘kasago’ There is a black kite, isn’t there? The heron is quite large, isn’t it? It’s a rockfish, isn’t it? A kite is circling around, isn’t it? That’s right I think about it later, though I feel like I’m really experiencing reincarnation, you know? The birds, I mean In the end, can’t you eat in a nenbutsu style? It’s not that I can’t eat, but there are almost no ways to eat it, so if it’s a small size, I might let it go Or should I let these little birds eat it? People who come here to fish usually try to catch rockfish It’s a fish that provides a good fight It definitely has a bit of weight to it The rockfish has a big mouth and bites down hard, which makes it quite strong when it pulls I think this might be the first time I’ve heard that you can catch a lot of fish properly This is already a bit difficult to grasp If I can’t grasp it, I’ll either grab it with my hands or use pliers It’s big enough that I can do it for you The jet coil has returned again; it just took off and ended up like this The sound is completely like that of an airplane I also caught a filefish I caught it, but I let that one go It will be around 7 o’clock As the sun sets, I ended up catching about 5 or 6 rockfish I decided to return to the tackle shop with the fish I caught Kill after catching I’m doing well, but I don’t really know how to tie it, so I just brought it as it is It’s about eating fish, you know I’ve been alive until now To judge while alive It feels really intense, doesn’t it? I’ve been eating fish and such until now Thinking that someone was doing it makes it feel a bit too real, or rather, it made me reflect By the way, since rockfish can produce a good broth, it has very little flesh, but when used as an ingredient in miso soup, it’s great It’s said to become really delicious I bought a good one that you can just sip from the bottle Also, I bought rice at the supermarket, and rice is super expensive right now It’s about 1900 yen for 2 kilograms There isn’t any local rice, you know The Goto Islands don’t produce rice, so that’s that I received that And this is the next day The next day, there was heavy rain It’s a situation where I feel like I could go for a walk The rain and wind, you know It’s terrible, starting from here Today, I was thinking of touring the island a bit by car The fishing tackle shop I mentioned earlier, you know, They said you can rent a light car for 3000 yen a day, so I’m heading there on foot again I’m walking towards it again This fishing tackle shop seems to be almost right after you get off at Fukue Port Since it’s located where it originally was, I feel like those who rent fishing gear still come here The bicycle I rented on the first day was 3000, and the light car I rented here is also 3000 per day, of course, plus gas fees If you also add insurance costs, it will be an additional 1000 yen, but you can rent this light vehicle So, this comes to 3300 yen I think that’s cheap I think the price is probably because it’s an island Just sharing it among a few people Personally, I thought the rental cars from the fishing tackle shop are the cheapest That’s just how it is, isn’t it? The fishing tackle shop staff are nice too They’re very kind, especially when it comes to fishing If you’re interested, this fishing tackle shop is really great You can buy fishing gear and rent a car, so I think you can enjoy the Goto Islands I am going to prepare the rockfish I caught yesterday I felt very harshly and thought to myself, maybe I’m done with fishing? So, this car I’ve been driving with this all along It’s a bit of a situation where we’re trying to go out and do various things, but we need to be a little more cautious It feels like a typhoon is coming So, in this situation, the idea of going out somewhere seems a bit nonsensical I’ve heard from the locals that such heavy rain is quite rare for this time of year Of course, typhoons can come, but without a typhoon, it’s unusual It seems that this supermarket rarely experiences heavy rain Yes, it’s heavy rain I’m currently driving through the city of reconciliation, and I think that’s the port area I believe it’s the port rotary Where is this? Buses are running normally, and schools are too Everything is running completely normally Regular offices and libraries, you know People who are commuting normally You were walking in this heavy rain, weren’t you? At this point already Honestly, I think it would have been better to stop a little earlier today The shopping district in Fukue is quite nice There is a solid streetscape, and compared to the remote islands of Tokyo, it feels like a well-established settlement, doesn’t it? I think it probably has a scale that is not inferior to the cities on the mainland of Kyushu When I imagine places like Oshima in Tokyo, I can already see a solid city here An elderly woman is riding her bike in the heavy rain She seems to be over 70 years old Speaking of Goto, the churches are famous, aren’t they? Hidden Christians I suppose it’s after the Meiji era when those people were able to practice Christianity openly Well, I said that I would properly build a church and that many churches remain I decided to go to the Dozaki Catholic Church So, you know, We’ve arrived, but it’s raining There’s a tour bus next to us, and the people on the tour bus are also in a strange situation They were waiting inside the bus without getting off, which was quite mysterious You know, there’s a feeling that the Douzaki Madeleine is becoming a tourist spot This place has a shallow and interesting sea when you come on a sunny day, but somehow, I feel… I’ve lost the desire to go in (it’s raining heavily), so just from the outside for now Looking at the exterior, it has a kind of church-like atmosphere In the end, it feels really amazing It’s quite cozy, isn’t it? This is Nagasaki What I thought about Christianity is more about the Virgin Mary rather than Jesus Christ It seems that there are quite a few forms of faith that resemble belief It’s called Tashaka Land It’s like a place where a public pool and a hot spring facility are combined I’ve arrived I did things that can be done indoors I guess I’ll just take a bath, so here we are This is a port town called Tomie I plan to have champon at a place called Tenko-kaku in the port town I think this is delicious, but It’s quite rich in pork flavor, using a good amount of pork It felt like I was eating tonkotsu ramen I have returned to the inn, but the rain has become quite heavy So, you know, Right now, I’m at the Taniguchi Fish Shop I came here to pick up the sashimi I ordered The lady at the shop said something like she’s never seen rain like this before I came to return the car, but I was told I could keep it until tomorrow morning, so I made a payment for now I have returned to the inn Here is the sashimi that I received It’s raining, you know There probably aren’t any fresh fish caught today I decided to have some fish that was probably caught yesterday So yesterday, I had the leftover miso soup and rice that I used for the rockfish soup, along with sashimi After all, since it’s Kyushu, I felt that the soy sauce is very sweet So, that’s how it is On Fukue Island in the Goto Islands, it was a day of exceptionally heavy rain, to say the least I think it often rains during typhoon season, especially in May There was just one day that turned into such a heavy rain day On this day, I think it might be more appropriate not to go outside too much Since you came all this way for a trip, it feels like a real waste to lose a day On this day, neither planes nor boats were operating, so I think those who planned to return that day couldn’t do so By the way, the day after this will be It will be another nice day, so I would like to check that as well
夕暮れどき、福江港近くの釣具屋でサビキ釣りのレンタルセットを手にした。料金は1,500円。仕掛けの使い方を丁寧に教えてもらい、「このあたりで釣れるよ」と地元の釣りポイントまで教えてもらった。
波止場には、すでに釣りをしている人が一人。近くではジェットフォイルが滑走路を走るような轟音を立てながら、まるで飛び立つかのように海を駆け抜けていく。そんな風景を背に、針が6本ほど連なったサビキの仕掛けを海に沈めた。
海の中を覗くと、小さなピンク色の魚がわらわらと群がっている。「アジかも？」と思ったけれど、これは「ネンブツダイ」という魚らしい。お祭りの金魚すくいに出てくるようなサイズ感の魚が大量に泳いでいた。
そんな中、ついに初ヒット。小さな魚体が揺れる釣り竿の先にかかったのは、アジ……ではなく、どうやら「カサゴ」だった。口が大きく、がぶりとエサに食いついてくるその力強さは、小さな魚とは思えない。しかも何匹も釣れる。釣ってすぐに弱ってしまう魚で、リリースするか、鳥たち（トンビやサギ）が狙っているのを眺めるかの選択になる。
念仏ダイは結局、ほとんど食用にはならないそうで、リリース。カサゴだけがしっかりと手元に残った。初めての「魚を釣る」「命をとる」行為に、どこか輪廻のような、重たい感覚を覚えた。
カサゴの出汁と、地元にない「地元米」
釣りを終えて、道具を返却。釣ったカサゴはしっかり活きていたけれど、〆方もわからず、そのまま持ち帰ることに。魚を自分でさばくという行為。今まで誰かがやってくれていたことを、自分が直接やることの重さを感じた。
ちなみに五島列島ではお米が作られていないようで、スーパーで買ったお米（2kg 1,900円）は他県産だった。高いけど、それでもお魚との組み合わせは格別だった。カサゴは身こそ少ないが、味噌汁にすると驚くほどいい出汁が出る。夕食は、カサゴ汁・ご飯・そして少し残しておいたお刺身。静かで贅沢な島時間だった。
翌日、突然の“嵐”
翌朝、窓を打ちつける雨音で目が覚めた。想像以上の大雨。歩いて移動するには厳しすぎる状況だったので、前日訪れた釣具屋で軽自動車をレンタルすることに。1日3,000円（保険込で＋1,000円）。破格だと思う。車をシェアする旅行者がいたら、ここで借りるのが正解かもしれない。
島の中心、福江の街は意外にも大きくて驚いた。東京都の離島とは規模が違う。商店街も、役所も、図書館も機能していて、通学中の高校生や、チャリで走るおばあさんの姿も見かけた。70代くらいに見えたけれど、傘もささずに颯爽と走っていて、なにか心打たれた。
この雨は台風でもないのに、地元の人も「この時期にこんな雨は珍しい」と驚くほどの天候。観光スポットはことごとく閉鎖モードで、堂崎天主堂に向かっても、観光バスの乗客すら車内待機していた。
雨の日の避難先とちゃんぽんの温もり
そんな中、トミエという港町にある温泉＆市民プール施設「たっしゃかランド」へ避難。インドアな楽しみといえば温泉。ここで少し心を休めた。
昼は「天光閣」という地元の中華屋でちゃんぽんをいただく。これが見事にヒット。豚のコクがしっかりと染み出したスープは、まるで豚骨ラーメンのようだった。
夜は、谷口鮮魚店さんで頼んでおいた刺身をピックアップ。大将のおばちゃんも「こんな雨はじめて見るわ」と言っていた。外は嵐のような雨だが、食卓の上は静かで、温かかった。
五島列島、旅人のジレンマ
旅に出ると、天気は選べない。せっかくの五島列島、海の絶景や教会巡りを期待して来たけれど、この日はほぼ外出できず、計画は全滅。自然の中に身を置くとは、こういうことでもあるのだろう。
だが、一方でこんな風に「嵐の日の旅」を体験するのも、ある種の贅沢かもしれない。魚の命をいただくことの重み、濡れながらも生活を営む地元の人の姿、甘い九州の醤油。記憶の深いところに残るのは、晴れた景色よりも、こうした一日かもしれない。
明日は晴れる。きっと、また違う五島が顔を見せてくれるだろう。
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#堂崎教会 #五島の隠れキリシタン #雨の教会巡り #聖母マリア信仰 #五島列島の信仰文化
#五島列島ひとり旅 #旅の記憶を綴る #五島で出会った風景 #旅先で考えたこと #日常と非日常のあいだで