Comme des Garçons – The World’s Most Innovative Fashion Brand
Hello and welcome to Japan Media Tour, I’m your host Stephen T.M., and today we’re going to be talking about Comme des Garcons -This iconic Japanese fashion brand was founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969 -A lot of people might know Comme des Garcons for
Its line PLAY, with the cute heart logo with eyes on it, but the brand is so much more than that -The concepts that inspire the designs are as deep as the themes in any novel or film, and they’re absolutely worth studying for anyone with a thirst for knowledge
-If you’ve listened to the podcast before then you know what I want to do is to slowly piece together the puzzle that is Japanese culture and society through a study of the art and media of Japan -This would be impossible without examining Japanese fashion, in particular,
Such an important company as Comme des Garcons -So stay tuned and see how Rei Kawakubo’s designs explore topics such as masculinity and femininity, the old vs. the new, and whether or not we should consider fashion to be art -First thing’s first though,
I always thought it was strange that this Japanese company had a French name -Well, Comme des Garcons is French for “like the boys”, and Kawakubo got the name of the brand from Francoise Hardy’s 1962 song “Tous les Garcons et les Filles” -There’s a couplet toward the end of the track that starts with:
“Comme les garçons et les filles de mon âge” -So the song actually says “comme les garcons” and not ”comme des garcons”, but you get the idea -By the way, I hope I didn’t offend anyone with my poor French, or with my poor Japanese for that matter, but it’s fun to try
-Another interesting thing about the brand name is that it isn’t just the name of the designer -When you think about it, most high fashion brands are just named after the designer – for example, Yohji Yamamoto, Yves St. Laurent, and Issey Miyake -One explanation why Comme des Garcons defies
This convention is that Kawakubo likes to stay in the shadows a little bit, and not put herself at the centre of things -Who is this Rei Kawakubo though? -Well, she was born in 1942 in Tokyo, of course, during World War 2
-And young Rei was a child of divorce – in 1940s Japan, which was very rare at that time -Apparently her mother wanted to pursue a career, whereas her father wanted her to be a more traditional housewife -This surely planted the seed for Rei Kawakubo’s
Later exploration of gender roles in her creations -What does our clothing say about society’s expectations of the different sexes? -Just think about that as we continue on -Kawakubo didn’t actually study fashion, but rather studied fine arts and literature Keio University -Which is actually where her dad worked
-And it’s also where Yohji Yamamoto went to school – for those unfamiliar, Yohji is another well-known fashion designer, and one of Kawakubo’s contemporaries who figures into her life story in quite a major way – the two actually dated for years back in the day
-After graduating, Kawakubo worked in advertising before getting into the fashion industry -As I mentioned, she started Comme des Garcons in 1969 -The company started with apparel, and is still by far most well known for its clothing, but also makes jewellery and fragrances, just like many other fashion brands do
-The women’s lines were successful throughout the 70s, and they came out with their first men’s line in 1978 -Throughout the 80s, Comme des Garcons was mostly monochromatic – focusing on form more than colour -This is in contrast to a lot of other fashion
Trends in Japan at the time, and all around the world, for that matter -So let’s look at some of the fashion trends from the 1980s “bubble economy” Japan: -First is Hamatora – which is a portmanteau of the words Yokohama and Traditional -Yokohama is known for being quite a sophisticated city, and so it
Follows naturally that Hamatora was meant for so-called “elegant and refined young ladies” -Some signature items of this look were: cardigans, loafers, high socks, and long wrapped skirts -This style was popularized by JJ women’s Magazine, and it was a preppy kind of look for women
-So let’s look at the male counterpart of Hamatora, Japanese Preppy, which popped up around 1981 -It was borne out of the “Ivy Look” of 1950s America -You know the one – preppy East Coast college guys in Ralph Lauren and stuff like that -Japanese Preppy was popularized by magazines like
Popeye and Men’s Club – I actually like Popeye magazine – they’ve got some good fashion stuff, and even some travel and restaurant guides -And you’ve got to understand – fashion magazines like these were huge in the 80s, especially before social media like Instagram and TikTok came around
-These magazines are still popular, but they had a lot more influence back then -Japanese Preppy style also provides more evidence of Japan’s obsession with all things American, especially at that time – add it to the list, alongside jazz music, baseball, hamburgers, and pro wrestling -Some items that definite Japanese Preppy
Style are: blazers, cardigans, hats, and button-down shirts -Next let’s look at the Olive Girls of 1980s Japan -Now “what the heck is an Olive Girl?”, you ask -Well it’s a style that comes from the fashion magazine “Olive”
-It’s a kind of cute and innocent, girlish look – maybe an early kawaii style, with lots of frills and bows, big collars, and plaid -Olive Girls often incorporated lots of pink and red into their outfits -Brands like Atsuki Oonishi, Issey Sport – IS
Tsumori Chisato Design, and Pink House were some of their favourites -Another popular style at the time was “Bodikon”, or Body Conscious which got big in the late 80s, around 1987 -This was all about long hair, tight dresses, and bright colours -It all kicked off after the 1985 Equal
Employment Opportunity Law was passed, which was a big step toward gender equity in Japan -This style was essentially for club girls, wearing mini dress, high heels, and maybe jackets with big 80s style shoulder pads -All right and I know I’ve gone through a lot of
Styles here, but I’ve got just one more before I get back to Comme des Garcons – Shibukaji, another portmanteau – Japan loves portmanteaus – Shibukaji means “Shibuya Casual”, and it rose to prominence around 1988 -While the early 80s saw the rise of the
Domestic Character Brand, or DC trend where people dressed head to toe in a single brand, Shibukaji rejected this and promoted the idea of styling various brands at the same time -It’s a pretty timeless style that is still ubiquitous to this day
-Picture some Levis jeans, a Hanes t shirt, and some Red Wing engineer boots -But what does all this have to do with Comme des Garcons? -Nothing! And that’s the point – Rei Kawakubo totally rejected the popular styles of the day
And came through with something entirely different -It was the 1981 Paris Collection that would prove to be a major turning point in the history of fashion -That year, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto flooded the runway with all black garments, and it was thus dubbed The Shock of Black by fashion critics
-The clothing were black, torn, and featured unique silhouettes that were not meant to be flattering to the body -Now it might be hard to understand just how groundbreaking this was – as this type of clothing has become pretty commonplace
Today – but the world of high fashion in the 1980s was dominated by lots of shiny and colourful, tight-fitting clothes -What Kawakubo and Yamamoto did represented a complete 180 from the fashion trends of their day -If you take a look at what other designers
Brought to Paris in 1981, you can see how these two Japanese designers just existed on a different plane than the rest -By the way, apparently it was a total coincidence that they both came out with all-black collections that year – seems hard to believe,
But apparently Rei just showed up in Paris without even telling Yohji she would be there -The Shock of Black was heavily criticized at the time, but like so much of Kawakubo’s work, it has come to be appreciated and even revered as time has passed
-She was attempting to send the message that women’s clothing didn’t just exist for the purpose of attracting male attention -Remember she created all of this in a very male-dominated Japan in the early 1980s -It also coincided with a time when more women were entering the workforce -And just picture what Japanese
Salarymen wear to work – black suits -There was power in black clothing, and Comme des Garcons was giving some of that power to the women of the late Showa Era -The Shock of Black, like several of the other Comme des Garcons collections, was seeking to
Fuse the masculine with the feminine -So the collection had its detractors, but it also had its fans, who were dubbed the Karasu-zoku, which means “group of crows”, referencing the black clothing they wore -The look was completed with distressed material,
Long, flowing tops, bold makeup, and boyish hairstyles – critics said they looked like beggars -Karasu-zoku might have been the most Japanese of the 1980s fashion trends, taking little influence from American style, and creating something all its own. -Comme des Garcons was already popular in Japan, but after the Shock of Black their
Stores started to pop up all over the place – in the US, France, England, and many other countries -Comme des Garcons is sometimes described as anti-fashion, going against the norms of the fashion world – The Shock of Black being a perfect example of this,
And there will be many more examples to come -In 1982 came the Destroy collection -It was sort of the next logical step from the 1981 Paris collection -It featured clothing full of holes and imperfections, meant to look imperfect and unfinished -Another fine example of wabi-sabi – one
Of our favourite concepts here on Japan Media Tour – the extremely oversimplified definition being to find beauty in the imperfect -Kawakubo was one of the founders of the deconstruction movement in fashion, along with others like Margiela, Yohji, and Karl Lagerfeld
-It’s the type of stuff that lay people might look at and think is ridiculous, not unlike the people who will look at a Picasso painting and say “my 6-year-old brother could have painted that” or something along those lines -And hey, some of it is kind of funny just
Because it’s so strange, but that doesn’t make it any less genius -Change is strange -The artists who try something new and different are the ones that make an impact -There are lots of people who can make a photorealistic painting – and it takes talent, but it does nothing to push art forward,
And it’s far less interesting than taking risks -Kawakubo knows this better than just about anyone -She has a real “out with the old, in with the new” type of attitude -The team at Comme des Garcons actually attempt to burn everything to the
Ground and start fresh each season – new ideas, completely separate from the old -Kawakubo said: ”Creation takes things forward. Without anything new, there is no progress. Creation equals new.” -She wouldn’t have been satisfied had she just found something that worked and stuck with it – she wanted to continue
To drive forward into the future and make newer and better and different creations -This is what separates the good from the truly great -But of course, there is a line that can be drawn between the different collections – though in
The case of Comme des Garcons it is not solid, but rather a dotted line -Everything is fresh and new, but when you make that much for that many decades there are bound to be a few recurring themes -Some of the repeated aspects of
Comme des Garcons pieces include frills and folds, excessive amounts of fabric, lumps and bumps, large holes, and unique silhouettes -But again, there is probably less continuity between Comme des Garcons collections than just about any other company, so don’t dwell on the physical similarities between pieces over the years
-Much more important are the ideas that inspire the collections -Kawakubo often combines both sides of a binary into one piece – male and female – East and West – old and new – even clothing and not clothing -So in order to better understand how Comme des
Garcons plays with those binaries, let’s look at some of their other collections -And I think we should start with their most famous and most controversial, the Spring 1997 collection entitled Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body -Some critics have referred to this as the “lumps and bumps collection”
-Critics absolutely hated this collection when it first came out, and it was actually the worst selling show in Comme des Garcons history -However, it is now considered one of the greatest collections of all time – funny how that happens -Kawakubo was already very well-established at
This point, both in Japan, and internationally – and as usual, she was trying to shake things up -This time even more so than usual – giving radical new form to her pieces -Even giving new form to the human body itself – breaking down beauty standards
And presenting something new and strange -The clothing completely recreated the human body – through the aforementioned lumps and bumps that were added to dresses that were otherwise pretty standard -It kind of looks like the models have tumours growing out of them -Last episode when I was talking about the horror
Movie Cure I mentioned the Uncanny Valley – well here it is rearing its disconcerting head again -Kawakubo said she wanted to “design bodies not clothes”, and I’d say she succeeded -Looking at this collection is pretty mindblowing, and even though it’s almost
30 years old at this point, it gave me a new understanding of what clothing can be – You know those moments when a light goes on in your brain? This collection did that to me -And I’m so grateful for moments like that – when something in my mind just clicks and
I realize some new possibilities in this world -So like I said, the padding stuffed with goose down that she added to the clothing made the models look kind of scary -She took something perfect, and made it strange – again I see a parallel
To the work of Picasso – he learned to paint well in a classical sense, and then the real challenge began – how could he turn the work on its head and create something new -I have one more reference to Picasso and then I promise I’m done – the pieces in the
Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body collection have actually been compared to his later works, in which he depicted his subjects from multiple perspectives overlayed in one image -In the Comme des Garcons collection some of the pads are said to represent the body
Parts of the models in different positions at different points in time -So fashion at this time was all about showing off the sexiness of models’ bodies, and Kawakubo turned this on its head – just as she had done with The Shock of Black in the 80s
-She told a story with each collection, so let’s go to the beginning of the Dress Meets Body story -When the first model walks out her breasts are exposed through a sheer, see-through top, forcing you to focus on the form of her actual body, as opposed to the clothing
-But when she turns around there are some strange lumpy pads on her upper back, instantly causing you to think about the pads as some sort of deformation with the model, as opposed to just a clothing design – the way she primes us here is absolutely genius
-And this continues throughout the show, getting more intense and exaggerated -Think about the title of the show: “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” – the two are coming together – it’s no longer just clothes on a body, or a body in some clothes, but rather the body and
The clothing have become fused into one being -Comme des Garcons created life in this show -I see it as much as an art show as a fashion show – I’m not sure if Kawakubo would agree though, as I’ve heard a few different quotes attributed to her on the subject.
-One said that she believes that fashion and art are two separate things, with the wearer of clothing being an active participant in the process, whereas the observer of a painting is passive -But what about us mere observers of her fashion
Show? We aren’t active in this process -Anyway, I believe fashion to be art, just a distinct form of art, and Comme des Garcons is the epitome of this -No need to get bogged down in definitions though – the point is, this show is incredible, even
If critics at the time weren’t ready for it yet -Dress Meets Body brings up another conversation though – that of plastic surgery and body modification surgeries -Changing our nature into something altogether unnatural, just as Kawakubo had done with her collection -This is more relevant than ever in the
Digital age we live in now, between photo editing and celebrity worship -While most clothes accentuate bodies to make them look more desirable, Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body made bodies look worse in a way – Destroying idealized beauty -This collection recreated the human form through wearable art
-It’s kind of the same thing clothing has done right from the very beginning -It covers up our body and we take on a new form -From here we could probably get into the topic of transhumanism, but I’ll save that for another time – maybe when I talk about Evangelion or something
-Next I want to quickly look at Comme des Garcons’ Autumn/Winter 1995 collection, “Sweeter Than Sweet”, just because it’s so different than everything else the company has created -Everything they do is different, but Sweeter Than Sweet, as the name suggests, is often said to be the most classically feminine of Kawakubo’s collections,
With lots of lace and flower patterns, soft and sheer fabrics, and nothing too offensive really -The models kind of look like little Pikmin or something to me -“Adult Punk” from 1997 is another collection worth checking out – this is another example
Of Kawakubo choosing to start with something beautiful, and then rip our expectations to shreds -The collection is full of really nice beige and purple outfits, but they don’t look quite finished, and Kawakubo then added red bike shorts just to throw us off even more -She purposely leaves her pieces open to interpretation
-She doesn’t want to define what it means, she wants each person to look at the pieces and take the time to decide what it means to them – so go look at some of the Comme des Garcons collections and think about what they mean to you
-The last collection I want to mention is called Cubism, and it’s from Spring/Summer 2007 -The thing that makes this one interesting is the recurring appearance of the red dot representing the sun, which is called the “hinomaru” in Japanese -That being said, Rei Kawakubo has always rejected the idea of being
Labelled simply as another Japanese designer -It seems she doesn’t want to be categorized, which is convenient for us as she is almost impossible to stick labels onto -The pieces in the Cubism collection are really nice and relatively conventional compared to a
Lot of other Comme des Garcons collections -They are a bit reminiscent of the brand Sacai – Sacai, by the way was founded by Chitose Abe, who used to work for Comme des Garcons as a pattern cutter -Abe also worked under Rei Kawakubo’s
Protege Junya Watanabe, who joined Comme des Garcons in 1984, and was made head of their Tricot line by 1987, eventually ending up with his own eponymous fashion line in 1992 -Rei Kawakubo took Junya under his wing which is very rare
-The two of them seem to be kind of similar – hiding from public view and working in the shadows -Unlike Rei, Junya studied fashion at Bunka, which is the most famous fashion school in Japan – Yohji Yamamoto also attended Bunka, by the way, as did a bunch of other famous designers.
-I’ll talk about Junya more in a future episode, but he’s a pretty interesting person as well -Let’s get to know Rei Kawakubo a bit more though -She came into the fashion world as somewhat of an outsider – not classically trained in fashion, but rather in aesthetics
-That’s part of why she’s an artist, and more than just a fashion designer -She doesn’t follow the classical rules of fashion, which gives her a bit of an advantage in breaking the rules -Her process is pretty unique – apparently at
The beginning of each season she just writes a word on a piece of paper and hands it to her pattern cutters as a source of inspiration -For example, the word could be “freedom” or something, and then all of the pattern cutters will mock up some designs based on this,
Bring it back to Kawakubo, and she will say “yes” or “no”, and then I’m sure they repeat this process a million times until they’ve got a hit -Rei also has a reputation of being a bit of an angry, or perhaps dissatisfied person -Instead of saying one of her collections
Went well, she might say that it was not unsatisfactory or something like that -And being the contrarian that she is, Kawakubo says she is disappointed when her collections are well-received by critics – it’s like that means she didn’t push the envelope enough
-What she really wanted though was a reaction, whether it’s negative or positive – I guess the worst thing for her would be if people were just bored with what she brought to the table -Kawakubo Rei was only the 2nd living designer to have a show at the Metropolitan Museum of
Art in New York City, after Yves St. Laurent, who did it in 1983 -She actually attended the Met Gala too, which came as a surprise to everyone, including her husband Adrian Joffe -Her Met show was called Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons, Art of the In-Between and opened on May 5, 2017
-Binary themes continue to play a role in the design and analysis of Comme des Garcons, and this exhibition was actually designed with 17 binary themes in mind, including: fashion/antifashion, clothes/not clothes, form/function, and abstraction/representation -Kawakubo requested that there were no labels or statements next to any of the
Pieces because she didn’t want her work to be interpreted in any strict or formal way -Again, everything was left in the eye of the beholder -Comme des Garcons’ main line became less and less about functionality as time went on, but other
Lines, such as the incredibly popular Comme des Garcons PLAY were designed so that anyone can wear them, and in a variety of different situations -Play was launched in 2002, and it’s all about accessible, normal clothing – t shirts and hoodies and things like that
-This is where Kawakubo’s business acumen is on full display -And she really is a great businesswoman, and takes a lot of pride in that – in fact she cares about that almost as much as she does about being a designer
-The eye-catching heart logo is beloved worldwide, and this is probably what a lot of you think of when you think of the Comme des Garcons brand -By the way, the heart with eyes logo was designed by Polish graphic artist Filip Pagowski -If you only know PLAY, then I’m sure it
Come as quite a shock when you search up images from the runway collections – you’d never think they were from the same brand -PLAY, as the name suggests, is colourful, fun, and marketable, with a lower price point than other lines under the Comme des Garcons umbrella
-PLAY also opened the doors to collaborations with brands like H&M and, perhaps most famously, Converse, as well as a plethora of other brands -Nothing against PLAY, but I hope this episode has helped to open some eyes to the fact that Comme des Garcons is so much more than a
Streetwear brand or something like that. It’s one of the most powerful forces fashion has ever seen -Even if you don’t care at all about fashion, there are things you can learn from studying Comme des Garcons that are just as important as anything you’d get from a book or a painting or a symphony
-I really want to get the point across that Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important artists of the past 100 years -I understand the runway models dressed up in seemingly ridiculous outfits can be a bit funny, but fashion designers need to take risks
In order to break down barriers and carry us into the future with their wearable art -Kawakubo really wants to make you think with her runway pieces -She calls the pieces “objects for the body” – not necessarily clothes, but maybe more like sculptures -I said in a previous episode that
The poet Matsuo Basho is as much a photographer as he is a writer, well maybe Kawakubo is as much a sculptor as a fashion designer -Clothing really is more than just what you wear – it’s how you express yourself – you wear it every day, and it becomes a
Part of you – Body Meet Dress, Dress Meet Body -All right, that’s it for our main topic today, but I’ve got a couple recommendations for you, one of which is directly related to Comme des Garcons -Before we get to that though, stay tuned for today’s bonus topic
-So I thought that while we were on the topic of fashion, we could talk about one of the most famous fashion districts in the world – Harajuku -Any time I’m in Tokyo, I always make sure to stop in Harajuku at some point, either to do some
Shopping, or just to see the free fashion show taking place in the street at all hours of the day -By the way, Rei Kawakubo moved to Harajuku after she graduated from university, so I’m sure it was a source of inspiration for her -Harajuku is located in Shibuya,
Southeast of Meiji Jingu shrine -While there you can visit the famous Takeshita Street, which is basically just a sea of people on a hill, eating crepes and cotton candy -A mix of tourists, and people dressed like Kyary Pamyu Pamyu – this is actually not my favourite
Part of Harajuku, but it’s worth seeing -I mostly just like walking around the backstreets, referred to as Ura-Harajuku – it’s actually pretty calm in Harajuku compared to a lot of other parts of Tokyo, as long as you stay off the main streets
-Harajuku was originally a small post town on the Kamakura Kaido, which was a network of roads going to and from Kamakura, during the Kamakura Period, which lasted from 1185 to 1333 -Sorry for saying Kamakura so many times, it’s a dirty habit – beautiful place though
-Anyway, it was in the 1970s that Harajuku became a fashion hub and one of the centres of youth culture in Japan -Later on, in the 90s and 2000s, all the big fast fashion brands moved into Harajuku, though most of them are located on the main street,
It did change the vibe of Harajuku a bit, making it more commercial -Don’t worry though, there are still tons of cool little boutiques and vintage shops scattered all over Ura-Harajuku -Now, I’m not going to saw that it’s the birthplace of Kawaii Culture, as this is actually the subject of much debate, with
Forms of it going back at least 100 years, but Harajuku is certainly mecca for all things kawaii -The music, the street food, and of course the fashion – somehow everything there is cute -So if you’re into that type of thing, I’m sure I don’t even need
To tell you to go there and check it out -Anyway, I’m sure this isn’t the last time we’ll talk Harajuku on the pod, but for now, let’s turn to our weekly recommendations -For my first rec of the day I’m going back to the Comme des Garcons well for another drink,
And talking about Dover Street Market -Dover Street Market was founded by Kawakubo and her husband, Adrian Joffe in 2004, and it now has 7 locations – the original was actually on Dover Street in London, and the Tokyo location is in Ginza
-The shop sells Comme des Garcons, as well as other high end fashion such as Sacai, Celine, and even streetwear or skate brands like Vans and Palace -The concept is based off of Kensington Market, which was a three storey market in London that was
A fashion and subculture hub from the 60s until the year 2000 when it closed its doors for good -The idea behind Dover Street Market is that the store is also supposed to be an art gallery -The clothes are displayed alongside art installations, making the shopping
Experience more than just a way to spend a few too many hard earned dollars or yen or pounds -They actually shut the store down a couple times each year to put up new installations and keep things fresh – this gives customers a reason to continue to visit the store
-I guess this has become pretty common, but understand that this wasn’t as much of a thing back in the mid-2000s as it is now – funny how fast some things change -Anyway, even if you aren’t planning on shopping, I think it would be worth it to go and see some of
The amazing Comme des Garcons pieces in person -So whenever I give a recommendation that’s related so directly to the main topic of the day, I always feel like I should give you another one, so how about a bite to eat? -Just a bit South of Harajuku
In Omotesando, you will find Ikina Sushi -They actually have a few locations, but this is the one I’ve been to, and it was really good -It’s a little pricey at dinner, so go at lunch to save a few bucks and eat the same sushi -They’ve got a bunch of different sets and
Every piece I had was really good – the atmosphere is pretty nice too -By the way, it can be a little tricky to find because it’s in the basement of a building -You’ll find it though, and you won’t regret going!
-All right, so that’s everything for this week – I really enjoyed doing the research for this one, and I learned a lot about Japanese fashion. I have a new view of Comme des Garcons now -Stay tuned next week as we look at the dark and mysterious world of Japanese yokai
-It’s a pretty broad topic, but it’s going to be a really fun one -Yokai are like monsters or demons in Japanese folklore, and they appear in all sorts of different movies, tv shows, and other media -So until then, this is Stephen T.M., signing off, and I’ll see you next time for, Yokai
Episode 10 is all about one of Japan’s most creative and important fashion brands: Comme des Garcons. The genius behind the brand is Rei Kawakubo, and her creations force us to think about deep philosophical questions. We also discuss Harajuku, Yohji Yamamoto, and Sushi.
Chapters:
0:00 Comme des Garcons
33:40 Harajuku
36:44 Dover Street Market
Dover Street Market Ginza:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/CNQ3uKoCmHFZWe8p6
Ikina Sushi Dokoro Abe Aoyama:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/KcDuKqZKD4hw7MCo7
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1件のコメント
great deep dive! thank you!