🚴♂️ 2025/12/21斯卡羅卑南道溫泉踩風 5 日｜D3
知本 → 金崙｜芬多精森林 × 部落咖啡 × 冬至暖湯圓
今天是冬至。這一天，是太陽斜照北回歸線最遠、也是一年中白晝最短的一天。08:10，我們自 知本芙儷溫泉酒店 出發，在久違的燦爛陽光中重新上路。寒意仍在，但光線清澈，像是在提醒從今天開始，白晝會一點一點地回來。
騎經知本溫泉區、跨過勇男橋後，進入 知本國家森林遊樂區。這裡宛如一座開放式的生態教室，林蔭步道間芬多精濃郁，鳥鳴蟲聲交織，是最自然的療癒。園區裡有頗具挑戰的好漢坡，也有柔美的百草花園，途中還幸運地看見 2+1 隻山羌，原本以為是小鹿，靈動又可愛，為這趟森林之行添上驚喜。
徒步在園區裡約一小時後，再度上車，前往 山地祖先發祥地紀念碑。此地名為「陸發岸」，意指發芽、發祥之地。站在碑前，跨過馬路便可遠望太平洋，而路旁的裝置藝術，乍看像一頭金龍，其實是卡大地布部落婦女與青年以馬賽克拼貼而成的集體創作，將母親的十字繡、山海共生、感恩天地與族群繁衍的記憶層層堆疊，細看之下，文化的重量悄然浮現。
沿華原海灣前行，來到 太麻里曙光園區 留影後，11:20 完成今日第一段近 3 公里的長上坡挑戰，抵達 新興村撒布優部落（東排灣族）。部落座落在翠綠山林間，入口雕像遙望太平洋，象徵排灣族共榮共生的精神。
今日的重頭戲在此展開。由當地 丁先生 導覽，帶領我們認識部落 8 位頭目的住家，從 1950 年開拓者進駐說起，到來自南大武、北大武與屏東來義鄉的族人陸續聚集，才形塑出今日的撒布優部落。接著回到部落展售中心，親手體驗咖啡烘豆，從輕焙、中深焙到超深焙，三種焙度依序完成。大家將咖啡豆分裝、註明日期，約定 12 天後沖泡品嚐、分享心得——這不只是一杯咖啡，而是一段被時間延續的旅程。
14:00 結束部落行程，起風的午後，我們沿著太平洋海岸南下。接下來的 華園坡 與 金崙坡，是北往南騎最讓人印象深刻的挑戰：坡短卻陡。電輔車在電力加持下穩定前行，一般車只能靠體力與毅力硬撐，看著電輔車越來越遠，除了苦笑，只能咬牙往上。但沒有人放棄，這正是單車最迷人的地方。
下滑至金崙時，遠方山頭烏雲密布，領隊果斷決定先入住 金崙城堡溫泉會館，再以接駁方式完成未竟的 10 公里行程。隨後參訪 壢坵小米學堂，由廢棄小學轉化而成的部落活化空間，兼具展售與文化展示功能，完整呈現小米與排灣族生活文化；再到 魯拉克斯吊橋 跳拍、留影，為今日畫面留下輕快的記號。
晚餐在 烤什麼風味餐，享用道地金崙美食，並在冬至這天，端上一碗熱騰騰的湯圓。暖意從舌尖一路蔓延，為寒冷的夜晚，也為這充實的一天，畫下最溫柔的句點。
今日實際騎乘約 44 公里，總行程約 54 公里，卻走進一座國家森林、拜訪兩個部落，身體雖疲憊，內心卻格外豐盛，這是一個很「滿」的冬至。
詳細行程介紹：https://bikexc.com/products/domestic/mold/TW-SKL-2401?sacct_no=42866384
🚴♂️ 2025/12/21｜Scaro & Pinuyumayan Hot Spring Cycling Tour, 5 Days｜D3
Zhiben → Jinlun｜Forest Phytoncides × Tribal Coffee × Winter Solstice Tangyuan
Today is the Winter Solstice—the day when the sun reaches its southernmost point over the Tropic of Cancer, marking the shortest daylight of the year.
At 8:10 a.m., we departed from Zhiben Fuli Hot Spring Hotel, setting off once again under long-missed, brilliant sunshine. The chill still lingered in the air, yet the light was clear and reassuring, as if gently reminding us that from today onward, daylight will begin to return, little by little.
Riding through the Zhiben Hot Spring area and crossing Yongnan Bridge, we entered Zhiben National Forest Recreation Area. The entire park feels like an open-air ecology classroom—lush forest trails filled with rich phytoncides, accompanied by birdsong and the sounds of insects, offering nature’s purest form of healing. Within the park are both the challenging “Hero Slope” and the graceful Herbal Garden. Along the way, we were lucky enough to spot two and a half Formosan muntjacs—mistaken at first for deer—lively and adorable, adding a delightful surprise to our forest journey.
After about an hour of walking in the park, we returned to our bikes and continued to the Ancestral Origin Memorial Site. Known locally as Lufa’an, the name means “sprouting” or “place of origin.” Standing before the monument, one can gaze across the road toward the Pacific Ocean. Nearby, an art installation initially resembles a golden dragon, but upon closer inspection reveals a collective mosaic created by women and youth from the Kadadibu Tribe. Layer by layer, it weaves together memories of mothers’ cross-stitch embroidery, harmony between mountains and sea, gratitude to heaven and earth, and the continuity of tribal life. Only through careful observation does its cultural depth fully emerge.
Following the coastline of Huayuan Bay, we stopped at Taimali Dawn Park for photos. At 11:20 a.m., we completed the day’s first major challenge—a nearly three-kilometer climb—before arriving at Sabau Tribe in Xinxing Village, home to the Eastern Paiwan people. Nestled amid lush mountains, the tribe’s entrance sculpture faces the Pacific Ocean, symbolizing the Paiwan spirit of coexistence and shared prosperity.
Here, the highlight of the day truly began. Guided by Mr. Ding, we visited the homes of the tribe’s eight chiefs and listened as he traced the community’s history—from the arrival of pioneers in the 1950s to the gradual gathering of families from South Dawu, North Dawu, and Laiyi Township in Pingtung, forming the Sabau Tribe as it exists today.
We then returned to the tribal cultural center for a hands-on coffee roasting experience, producing light, medium-dark, and dark roasts. The beans were packaged, labeled with dates, and taken home, with a shared agreement to brew them in twelve days and exchange tasting notes. This was not just about coffee—it was a journey extended through time.
At 2:00 p.m., as the wind picked up, we concluded our tribal experience and continued south along the Pacific coast. The Huayuan Slope and Jinlun Slope soon followed—short yet steep climbs that leave a lasting impression when riding north to south. E-bikes powered steadily upward, while riders on regular bikes relied solely on strength and determination. Watching the e-bikes gradually pull away, all one could do was smile wryly and keep pushing forward. Yet no one gave up—this, after all, is what makes cycling so captivating.
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