🚴♂️ 20251007 日本單車環四國一周認證 12日＋島波海道 D5
Heat. [Music] [Music] Heat. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] Heat up here. [Music] [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Applause] [Music] Heat. Heat. All [Music] right.
德島 → 阿波 → 東洋｜全程 93 公里
清晨離開德島市區，陽光溫柔，空氣中帶著淡淡海鹽氣息。感謝颱風轉向，我們迎來涼爽乾淨的一天——有風、有雲，卻完全沒有雨，正是最舒服的騎行天氣。
一路沿著山谷前行，福井大壩水庫碧綠如鏡，四周青山層疊，倒影靜靜映在水面。越過今天最大的爬坡後，一路順勢下滑，迎來午餐時光。
午餐安排在「海賊舟餐廳」，餐廳外觀是一艘巨大的木製海盜船，氣勢十足。大家笑著拍照、分享趣味，一邊享用豐盛的海鮮定食——炙燒鰹魚、味噌湯、刺身拼盤，每一道都新鮮入味，讓人食指大動。
午後的道路起伏不斷，山路蜿蜒曲折，偶爾透過樹縫可見閃閃發亮的太平洋。那種若隱若現的藍，讓人彷彿回到了台灣的舊蘇花公路，一樣蜿蜒，一樣伴隨海風與浪聲。
接近南阿波海岸時，我們沿途經過四個觀景台。第一展望台面對浩瀚的太平洋，東邊天空因颱風外圍雲系翻湧，西邊卻萬里無雲。海面被黑潮拍打成銀白色波帶，景象壯闊奇妙。蜿蜒的海岸線與層層山影，構成四國最動人的天際線之一。
路上遇見許多徒步走「四國遍路」的行者。有戴著斗笠、披著白衣的日本老人家，也有從德國來的年輕女生。大家揹著行囊、步履堅定，每一次擦肩而過，都是對信念與毅力的致敬。
午後逐漸進入更偏遠的區域。臨近住宿點時，領隊特別提醒大家在最後一間「羅森便利商店」補給，因為今晚下榻的村莊極為寧靜，夥伴們說，住了好幾天城市，更愛這樣靜逸的鄉村。
這裡正是「DMV」的起點——一種世界首創、可同時行駛在公路與鐵軌上的雙模式車輛（Dual Mode Vehicle）。該系統由德島縣阿佐海岸鐵道引進，於 2021 年 12 月正式啟用，串連德島縣海陽町與高知縣東洋町，全線共 11 站，是創新與觀光兼具的新焦點。雖然今天沒能親眼見到，但明天將在路上與它相遇。
傍晚抵達【東洋町】，這裡位於高知縣東端，背山面海、地形層疊。當地以沿岸漁業與水果栽培為主，昔日盛行鰹魚捕撈與捕鯨，如今依然保留著純樸的漁港風情。晚餐是炭火烤肉，肉質鮮美多汁，香氣瀰漫整個食堂。同行的夥伴中，竟有人是「第一次吃烤肉」，滿臉驚喜與笑容。
夜色降臨，村莊的街道靜得只能聽見風聲。沒有霓虹，沒有喧囂，只有星空、笑聲與一份深深的平靜。
這一天，我們從城市騎進山海，也在靜謐中重新找回了心的節奏。93 公里的路程，不只是距離，更是一場內心的旅行。
🚴♂️ 2025.10.07 Japan Shikoku Island Round Cycling Certification 12 Days + Shimanami Kaido D5｜Tokushima → Awa → Toyo｜Total Distance: 93 km
We left Tokushima City early in the morning. The sunlight was gentle, the air carried a faint scent of salt from the sea. Thanks to the typhoon’s change of course, we were blessed with a cool, refreshing day—breezy, a little cloudy, but no rain at all. Perfect weather for cycling.
The route followed a mountain valley toward the Fukui Dam Reservoir, where emerald-green waters reflected the surrounding hills like a mirror. After conquering the biggest climb of the day, we coasted downhill smoothly toward our lunch stop.
Lunch was at the Kaizokusen Restaurant, a quirky spot shaped like a giant pirate ship. Everyone laughed while taking photos before diving into the seafood set meal—seared bonito, miso soup, and sashimi platters—fresh, flavorful, and deeply satisfying.
The afternoon ride unfolded along a series of rolling hills. The road twisted through dense forests, and at times, glimpses of the Pacific Ocean flashed through the trees. The scenery felt familiar—like cycling Taiwan’s old Suhua Highway, winding, rugged, and kissed by sea breeze and waves.
Approaching the Minami Awa Coast, we stopped at four scenic viewpoints. From the first observation deck, we faced the vast Pacific. The eastern sky was filled with dramatic clouds from the distant typhoon, while the western sky stretched clear and bright. The black current crashed against the rocky shore, sending silver-white waves across the coastline—a breathtaking scene of power and contrast.
Along the way, we met many pilgrims walking the Shikoku Henro Trail. Some wore straw hats and white robes—elderly Japanese travelers on a spiritual path—while others were young wanderers from abroad, including a girl from Germany. Each step they took radiated quiet determination, and every passing greeting felt like a silent exchange of respect.
As we neared our destination, the roads grew quieter and more remote. At the final Lawson convenience store, our leader reminded everyone to stock up—because tonight’s lodging would be in a truly peaceful village. The group chuckled, saying that after several days in busy cities, they had come to love the calm of the countryside even more.
This area marks the starting point of DMV (Dual Mode Vehicle)—a world-first transport innovation that runs on both rail and road. Operated by the Asa Coast Railway since December 2021, it connects Tokushima’s Kaiyo Town and Kochi’s Toyo Town, covering 11 stations. Part of the line runs on rails, part as a bus, seamlessly switching modes at designated points. It’s both a technical marvel and a new sightseeing attraction. Though we didn’t see it today, we’ll meet this charming little vehicle on tomorrow’s route.
By evening, we arrived in Toyo Town, located at the eastern tip of Kochi Prefecture. Here, mountains rise straight from the sea. The town’s economy relies mainly on coastal fishing and fruit cultivation; in the past, it was famous for bonito and whaling. Now, it’s a quiet seaside community within the Muroto-Anan Kaigan National Park, where rugged cliffs meet the Pacific’s deep blue.
Dinner was a charcoal-grilled barbecue feast. The meat was tender and rich with flavor, its aroma filling the entire dining room. One of our teammates—who had never eaten grilled meat before—smiled wide as he tried his very first bite.
When night fell, the village grew completely still. No neon lights, no city noise—only the whisper of wind and the sparkle of stars.
Today’s 93 kilometers carried us from the bustle of the city to the serenity of the coast. In that silence, we didn’t just ride across land—we rediscovered the rhythm of peace within ourselves.
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