Cycling the Camel Trail to BODMIN on Cornwall’s Lost Railway

Cycling the Camel Trail to BODMIN on Cornwall’s Lost Railway

This time, we are biking to Bodmin, tackling the 
middle section of the famous Camel Trail from Wadebridge to Bodmin, where we’ll explore the town 
centre’s past by visiting some of its historic attractions. We’ll also enjoy an afternoon 
tea and a steam train ride along some of the   restored Bodmin and Wenford Railway. It’s a truly 
nostalgic look back at this part of Cornwall. You’re joining us in Padstow. If you watched last 
week’s video, then you’ll have seen that we rode from Wadebridge on the Camel Trail down here 
to Padstow and had a lovely walk around. And now we’re going to do the reverse. We’re actually 
going to ride from Padstow to Wadebridge and then   straight on to Bodmin as part of the Camel Trail 
ride that you can do here in Cornwall. We covered this section of the camel trail in our last video. 
So, as we make our way back to Wadebridge, this is just a quick montage of the journey. To find out 
all the history of this section of the trail, see the beautiful ride and a lovely tour of Padstow, 
make sure you check out last week’s video. We’re just arriving back at Wadebridge. The 
Beach Box Cafe is a good spot for snacks, drinks, and toilet facilities.   It’s also where we picked up our bikes in 
the previous video at Bridge Bike Hire. The next section to Bodmin is around 5.75 miles 
and begins with a short section of main road cycling to pass through the town and enter the 
middle section of the trail. There are designated cycling lanes, so it’s not too bad if you’re 
not that familiar with cycling on a main road. Wadebridge is a thriving riverside town with 
lots of independent shops and cafes to explore, along with a quaint pedestrianised high street. 
But we won’t be stopping this time round. This section, often affectionately referred to as 
upriver, maintains its remarkably flat profile, mirroring the meandering course of 
the river camel as it gracefully winds   through picturesque open pastures and tranquil 
woodlands towards the market town of Bodmin. As the trail extends inland from Wadebridge, the 
scenery undergoes a captivating transformation, moving from open pastures into densely wooded 
landscapes, characterised by wooded valleys and farmland. These natural corridors provide welcome 
shade and a sense of seclusion. Throughout this journey, the meandering River Camel remains 
a constant companion, offering serene views and contributing to the tranquil atmosphere.   The Camel Trail is steeped in a rich railway heritage, a history that profoundly shapes the experience of 
traversing this path. It meticulously follows the track bed of the historic Bodmin and Wadebridge 
Railway, the B&WR, which holds the distinction of having carried Cornwall’s first steam trains 
in 1834, marking it as the first railway in West Britain to transport passengers. Along the 
route, tangible reminders of this industrial past are visibly preserved. The now disused 
shooting range platform was built in 1880 and apparently could only be stopped at by the written 
permission of the army and for their sole use. There are several railway bridges that now   serve as picturesque crossings or 
shelters for cyclists and walkers. Groggeley Halt. For those partial to fine wine, the Camel 
Valley Vineyard presents a delightful and somewhat unexpected stop. This award-winning 
vineyard is conveniently situated near Nan Stalin, just a short distance from the trail. 
It offers a unique opportunity to take   a break from cycling and indulge in 
acclaimed wine tasting and tours. A particularly charming and nostalgic highlight 
of this section is the working steam train of the B&WR. For a stretch near Bodmin, this 
heritage railway runs alongside the trail, offering a delightful glimpse into a bygone era 
as the steam train chugs past, evoking images of its original purpose. We’re going to have a 
ride on that steam train later in this video. This last bit’s a bit harder. It’s uphill. 
I feel when you’re on pedal power alone, no electric. Yeah. Feel the difference. Yeah. 
Well, it’s been major major difference for me being on electric. But I also think 
this part is it’s a bit more overgrown, isn’t it? It’s not as pretty as the other 
section. Well, the river’s only small here.   Yeah,  we have a mile and a half to go. Is it really a 
mile and a half to go, and it looks uphill?    Better get going then! As the platform of Dunmere Halt 
comes into view on the right, some steps will take you up to road level and the quaint Borough Arms 
if you fancy stopping for a pint and some food. We are about to branch off to the Bodmin terminus 
of the trail. If you continue to cycle, it will take you along the final part to Wenford Bridge, 
but we won’t be completing that on this visit. Let’s go and have a look at the historical 
centre of Bodmin before we take our bikes back   to Wadebridge and drive to the steam railway for an 
afternoon chug along the heritage line. As soon as we leave the trail, a striking structure greets 
us. It’s not immediately apparent from the road, but the high walls provide a clue to its former 
use. On the edge of Bodmin Moor, on the outskirts of the town, is Bodmin Jail, a landmark which was 
constructed in 1779 as a pioneering example of prison reform, featuring individual cells 
and segregated areas for men and women, built largely by Napoleonic prisoners of war using 
20,000 tons of granite. Initially serving as a debtor’s prison, it underwent multiple expansions 
due to overcrowding, and from 1887 to 1922, a wing was occupied by the Royal Navy.  The jail was the site of 55 executions, including the last in Cornwall in 1909. After 
its closure, it served various unconventional purposes, including a nightclub. Following a significant redevelopment, it reopened in 2021 as an immersive tourist attraction, a luxury 
hotel, blending its dark past with modern design. Bodmin’s historical significance traces its 
evolution from a pivotal monastic settlement to a prominent administrative and judicial centre 
within Cornwall. Tradition holds that a Christian cell was established here around 500 AD by St. 
Guran. This spiritual community was later taken over by St. Petroc, a Welsh prince trained in 
Ireland who arrived around 530 AD. St. Petroc is credited with founding the priory, which 
subsequently solidified Bodmin’s status as a crucial religious centre in the West. By 
the time of the Doomsday Survey in 1086, Bodmin’s importance was undeniable. It stood 
out as the only large Cornish settlement recorded in the Doomsday Book. A unique 
distinction that underscores its early prominence. The shrine housing St. Petroc’s 
relics served as a powerful focal point,   attracting pilgrims and further 
stimulating the local economy. This pillar marks the birthplace of the famous 
writer Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch, born in a house at this location on the 21st of November 1863. It 
also mentions that the pillar actually originally stood in the grounds of the Bodmin Priory.   Ahead of us is St. Petroc’s Parish Church, a magnificent edifice that stands as the largest parish church 
in Cornwall, second only to Truro Cathedral. In the western entrance of the 
churchyard stands St. Guron’s well,   a small granite building marking the 
site where the earliest Christian cell was established. The water emerges 10 
metres away at the corner of the busy road. While earlier Christian structures existed 
on the site, the present church building   dates primarily from 1469 to 72. This impressive 
structure measures 151 ft long and 65 ft wide, with almost all of its masonry being original 
15th-century work. The church began as a Roman Catholic place of worship but transitioned to an 
Anglican church during the English Reformation. The upper part of the spire was lost to lightning 
in 1699. Prior to that, it soared to a height of 150 ft, 45 metres. Thanks to multiple restorations 
over the centuries, including two significant   Victorian-era projects and another in 1930, the 
church has been preserved for future generations. Upon entering St Petroc’s, visitors are 
immediately drawn to the particularly   impressive 12th-century Norman font, prominently 
placed at the entrance to the nave. This large and finely carved font is considered the 
largest and most highly ornamented of its type in Cornwall. The church interior is rich with 
historical artefacts and memorials. Among the many interesting monuments, the tomb of Prior 
Thomas Viviian, the penultimate prior of Bodmin Priory. Formerly located in the priory church, his 
effigy was not destroyed during the Reformation but relocated to the parish church.    A 12th-century 
ivory casket believed to have once contained the relics of St. Petroc, which were famously stolen 
in 1177, but later recovered. Part of the church also serves as a regimental chapel of the Duke of Cornwall’s Light Infantry, dedicated in 1933. The extensive churchyard, which slopes gently, 
is equally rich in history. Here, visitors can find the ruin of a 14th-century chapel of 
St. Thomas Beckett in the southeast corner. To truly grasp the essence of Bodmin’s past, a 
visit to the Bodmin Town Museum is indispensable. Situated on Mount Folly in the centre of this 
ancient county town beside the Shire Hall, this charming history museum offers 
free entry and presents a diverse range   of displays showcasing a captivating 
collection of artefacts, photographs, and memorabilia that collectively weave 
the story of Bodmin’s past. Each exhibit offers a unique window into different facets of 
local life and significant historical periods. I particularly like this board showing 
the evolution of transport from foot and   packhorses to Carriers’ Wagons, Stage coaches, 
and the arrival of the railway to the motorcar. Among the key highlights, visitors can explore 
a major World War I exhibit providing poignant insights into the town’s contributions 
and experiences during the Great War.   A meticulously recreated Victorian Cornish kitchen 
offers a tangible glimpse into the domestic routines and daily life of a bygone era. The 
presence of a blacksmith’s forge illustrates the traditional crafts and industries that were vital 
in Bodmin’s economy and community. Law and Order, with the history of the jail, an original cell 
door, and policing uniforms and paraphernalia. While some visitors describe the museum space as 
small, its intimate setting is often praised for allowing personal interactions with knowledgeable 
staff and housing numerous intriguing items. Its central location in Bodmin’s town centre 
makes it easily accessible for both locals and tourists eager to delve into the local history. 
We do highly recommend you pop in and explore. Right. Well, there we go. We’ve turned 
back on our way back to Wadebridge now. Six miles to go. That will be end end of our 
little cycle today. I know we haven’t done the whole thing. Maybe we’ll do it another time, 
but it’s been really exciting doing the riding, that’s for sure. All right, 
let’s get back to Wadebridge. Riding back into the town, we passed 
the old Wadebridge station. The last   train left Wadebridge at 
5.20pm on the 28th January 1967. The building is now known as the John 
Betjeman Centre, a community hub and charity   primarily focused on promoting the welfare 
of people aged 50 plus in the local area. Well, there we are. What a wonderful ride we’ve 
had today. The two different rides over the two videos that we’ve shown you. Uh, about 24 miles 
in total that we’ve cycled. The ebike made it so much easier for me, as I’m not as fit as Will. 
Really did make a difference. Um really enjoyed it. Now we’re going to see if we can catch the 
steam train. Spend the afternoon on the back of the train. After an invigorating morning spent 
cycling, the transition to a more leisurely pace   was a welcome prospect. The Bodmin Wenford Railway 
promises a journey back in time, a unique charm that only our heritage steamline can provide. 
Upon arrival at Bodmin General, the railway’s headquarters, the central hub, an immediate sense 
of immersion takes hold. The station exudes a gentle old-world energy and has been meticulously 
restored to beautifully reflect a typical 1950s branchline station. Resplendent in the classic 
British Railways Western region colour scheme of that period. This remarkable attention to detail 
instantly transports visitors to a bygone era. Well, this is going to be a fairly quick 
trip on the train. We’re here late in the   afternoon. There’s only one more train 
running today. So, we’ll be up and down the line. It takes about 45 minutes. I didn’t 
realise there are actually two lines here. Um, but we can only go on the one just cuz we are on 
the last train of the day. It cost us £15 each to do that because it’s the last train. Otherwise, 
it’s £23.50. Uh, I guess that’s for the day per person. But anyway, we’ll have a run up and down 
the line and enjoy a bit of steam this afternoon. Our loco for today was built in 1928 at the GWR 
Swinden Works, seeing out its last years in the Truro shed until it was withdrawn in 1961. In 
1986, the Bodmin Railway Trust bought the loco and 17 years were spent restoring it. And 
in September 2003, it was again in steam. The locomotive is now performing what is called 
“running around”. It will push the carriages back past the points. The engine uncouples 
from the carriages, comes back forward. The points are changed, and then it moves 
gracefully onto the adjacent track to   move past the carriages to be reattached 
at the head of the train. On the way, there is an essential water stop 
to replenish the tanks for the   next service. This manoeuvre is a hallmark of 
steam railway operations and a joy to witness. With the loco now at the head of the train and 
the carriages moved back down the platform,   we can at last join the train for our ride. The station’s naming history reveals 
an interesting chapter in railway  development. Originally constructed by the Great 
Western Railway and opened on May 27th, 1887, the station was initially simply called Bodmin. 
Its renaming to Bodmin General on September 26th 1949, following nationalisation, was not 
an arbitrary decision. This change was a practical one made to distinguish it from other 
stations in the area, specifically Bodmin North and Bodmin Road, which is now known as Bodmin 
Parkway and the station where we’ll stop and meet the National Rail Network. You can see where the line branches off to Boscarne Junction, which we cycled past earlier. As I said, we can 
only go to Bodmin Parkway this afternoon as it’s the last train of the day. If you have an all-day 
ticket, then you’ll be able to explore both lines. Steam-hauled passenger services on the 
line ceased in 1963, and all passenger services between Padstow and Bodmin Road were 
withdrawn in 1967. Freight traffic primarily for the China clay industry continued until 
1983, when the route saw complete closure. The response to this closure was immediate and 
passionate. The Bodmin Railway Preservation Society, BRPS, was formed in 1984, followed by 
the Bodmin Railway PLC, specifically created to raise funds and purchased the line from Bodmin 
Parkway to Boscarne Junction via Bodmin General. This remarkably swift formation of the BRPS, 
merely a year after the line’s complete closure and the subsequent almost immediate first 
opening day in 1986, powerfully illustrates a deep-seated community-driven desire to resurrect 
and preserve this vital piece of railway history. Along the way, the train passes Colesloggett 
Halt, a charming, peaceful wayside station nestled amongst beautiful scenery. The Halt was 
originally opened in 1993 to serve a nearby park farm which has since closed. Today, its primary 
purpose is to provide access to Cardinham Woods, a local beauty spot with walking and cycling 
trails. Due to the steep gradient of the track, steam locomotives will typically only 
stop at Colesloggett on their journey   towards Bodmin Parkway and not on 
the return trip to Bodmin General. The arrival at Bodmin Parkway is on platform 
3, positioned right alongside the mainline platform used for London-bound 
trains. This unique arrangement   visually emphasises its dual function as 
both a heritage and a national rail hub. This stop at Bodmin Parkway 
is the perfect opportunity to   indulge in the pre-ordered cream tea. 
We have filled them the Cornish way, as we are in Cornwall. I’ll let you fight it 
out in the comments as to which way is best. The station was originally built by the 
Cornwall Railway in 1859 and named Bodmin Road. Its significant renaming to Bodmin Parkway 
in 1983 was a strategic move reflecting its evolving role as a gateway to the area’s 
natural beauty and attractions nearby. As the train pulls away, the line 
gracefully curves sharply and crosses   the impressive 79-yard viaduct 
spanning the River Fowey below. Chugging back towards Bodmin General, the familiar 
scenery takes a subtly different appearance, revealing new, previously unnoticed details 
when viewed from the opposite direction. Whilst we could not travel on all of 
the line, it was a lovely way to rest   our legs and enjoy the scenery for 
a couple of hours. We hope you’ve enjoyed coming along on this train ride and 
listening to the rhythmic chug of the train. As we make our exit from the station,   let’s see where we’ll be heading 
next time on this Cornish series. Escape to Mousehole, an incredibly pretty fishing 
village in Cornwall. In this midweek bonus video, we’ll invite you to stroll its narrow, 
weathered streets, inhale the fresh,   salty air, and soak in the breathtaking 
scenery of a harbour often hailed as one of Cornwall’s most picturesque. Join us 
next time so you can decide if you agree. Well, what a fantastic end to our day. Great 
run on the railway. We’ve done so much today, cycling and a steam ride. Legs are absolutely 
dead. So, it was good that we were on the train this afternoon. Really enjoyed it. Thanks so 
much for watching. We’ll see you on another   video in Cornwall really soon. Take care. 
Do subscribe and join us again. Bye-bye.

Get ready to pedal into the past on Cornwall’s famous Camel Trail!
In this video, we’re swapping our usual laidback style to zip through the countryside for a charming journey back in time, all centred around the Camel Trail and historic market town of Bodmin. From the tranquil trails to the rattling of a steam train, this adventure is a love letter to a bygone era. We’ll be tackling the scenic middle section of the famous Camel Trail, a path that was once a bustling railway and is now one of the UK’s most beloved cycling routes. Our destination is the very heart of the town, where every street corner and stone-walled building whispers tales of its long and fascinating history.

Join us as we cycle to Bodmin, exploring its historic town centre and culminating in a delightful afternoon tea aboard the Bodmin and Wenford Heritage Railway. This isn’t just a bike ride; it’s a nostalgic look back at a vital piece of Cornish heritage. The town of Bodmin is the perfect blend of natural beauty and historical significance, making it a must-visit for anyone who appreciates the unique character of England’s past.

Helpful Links:-
www.bridgebikehire.co.uk
www.theborougharms.com
www.bodminjail.org
www.bodminjailhotel.com
www.bodmin.gov.uk/community-and-visiting/bodmin-town-museum

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