2012: Viaggio al centro dell’Europa – pedalando attraverso Francia, Lussemburgo, Germania e Svizzera
After spending yesterday evening in nearby Basel, Switzerland, we begin this journey from Weil am Rhein, located in Germany on the border with Switzerland and France. Initially, we follow the banks of the Rhine northward. Along its course, the landscape is particularly wild at times, and we pedal in absolute tranquility. Once we reach Neuenburg, we turn toward the hills and, riding through the vineyards, we reach the beautiful village of Staufen. Leaving it behind, we continue through the hills toward Freiburg, which is now close by. Arriving in the historic center, we are struck by the grandeur of the Gothic cathedral. These grandiose religious buildings, often found in the cities we will pass through, will be a constant feature of this journey. Despite the heat, the center of Freiburg is very welcoming. We are on the edge of the Black Forest, and the water flowing down from the hills is so fresh that the surface streams flowing into the city provide a welcome respite on these scorching August days. This morning we head back toward the Rhine, passing through several small, charming villages along the way, alternating with cultivated fields, making the ride particularly pleasant. In Breisach, after climbing to the top of the hill to admire the cathedral, we cross the river and enter France. The landscape remains unchanged amidst the crops; here too, vineyards occupy most of the land. As we approach Colmar, the typical half-timbered houses that will be a recurring feature of our adventure begin to appear. We arrive in town in the early afternoon. As always, the tourist office helps us find accommodations for the night. Today’s leg is short, so we have time to leisurely explore the historic center of this wonderful Alsatian town. It’s truly a pleasure to wander along its narrow cobblestone streets, crisscrossed by numerous canals, earning it the nickname “France’s Little Venice. ” Today’s route will be a constant up and down along the eastern edge of the Vosges Mountains. This mountain range forms the natural border of Alsace and likely creates climatic conditions particularly suited to its culture of life. Today’s stage is certainly among the most beautiful of the trip. Throughout the day, we cross splendid hills covered in vineyards, while the villages we pass are each more beautiful than the last. The entrances to these villages are almost always marked by imposing stone gates, while the town centers are dominated by half-timbered houses, some of which are particularly beautiful. This construction method, typical of Central Europe and used from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, is based on a load-bearing frame constructed from wooden planks placed vertically, horizontally, and diagonally, leaving them exposed. The spaces between the planks are then filled with composites of various materials. Alsace is also famous for the frequent presence of storks. We see few while pedaling, but we make up for it when we reach the center of Barr, where we will spend the night. This morning, we resume following the wine route from Alsace. The hillsides are still covered in vineyards, and the villages we pass through are stunning. We’re in France, but the names of the villages here often have German roots. A sign that this region has historically been a source of dispute between the two countries. After Molsheim, the landscape changes , and we find ourselves immersed in a sea of corncobs. The hills recede behind us, and following the beautiful Bruche canal bike path, we head toward Strasbourg. Our arrival in this great city is almost unnoticed. Following the bike path, we suddenly find ourselves in the Le Petit France neighborhood, characterized by bridges, narrow streets, and half-timbered houses—certainly the most Alsatian part of the city. Heading toward the center, we suddenly come upon the Notre-Dame Cathedral. The visual and emotional impact is remarkable, so close you can’t even see it in its entirety. The interior is equally impressive, in full Gothic style. The stained-glass windows are splendid, and despite the crowds of tourists, the atmosphere is particularly austere. Following the course of the River Ill, we arrive in the modern district, home to many European institutions. From here, we take the cycle path along the canal connecting the Rhine to the Marne, which we follow to Brumath. The world of navigable canals in France is vast, and associated tourism is particularly developed. This involves renting a houseboat and following the network of these canals, passing through dozens of locks that allow you to overcome the differences in altitude. The Marne-Rhine Canal is over 300 km long and was opened in 1853. Many consider it one of the most beautiful in France, thanks to its lush vegetation, wooded valleys , picturesque villages, and facilities such as locks, tunnels, and a water-powered boat lift. The only town we encountered along this stretch was Saverne, located where the canal crosses the Vosges Mountains. It’s a popular tourist destination, but we weren’t particularly drawn to it. The most enjoyable part of the ride was undoubtedly the one where the bike path followed an abandoned branch of the canal for a few kilometers. Here, the wild environment and the old, abandoned structures created an atmosphere worthy of some fantastical journey by Jules Verne. Leaving Sarrebourg, we returned to the bike path that followed the canal. The landscape had become, if possible, even more rural. The agricultural areas alternated with beautiful woods, and at a certain point we even reached a lakeside area where the canal, with its lovely adjacent bike path, crossed the lakes and continued on its way. After a few kilometers, another engineering marvel: a lock that allowed the canal to drop a full 15 meters. Today, the atmosphere was a bit gloomy, even rainy, but thanks in part to this, the setting was particularly evocative. The only town we encountered today was San Nicolas de Port, where we had planned to stop, but since we couldn’t find a place to stay, we headed straight for Nancy. This morning, after passing through the beautiful Place Stanislas, visiting the authentic Parc de Pepiniere, and wandering around the historic center, we resume our journey. To leave Nancy, we take a lovely bike path along a canal, thus avoiding the unsightly suburbs. After a few kilometers, the canal flows into the Moselle, and we join the bike path that runs alongside it. This river, a tributary of the Rhine, will be our guide for the next six days , so we’ll have a chance to get to know it quite well. Today, the wind is quite strong, so despite spending a couple of hours in Nancy, we quickly come within sight of Metz, or rather, its bell tower. The Moselle flows close to its historic center, making it easy to reach the majestic Gothic cathedral that dominates it. Our arrival in the city center is then brightened by an unexpected surprise. Metz is a beautiful city, and this morning we visit its crowning glory, the Gothic Cathedral of Saint-Étienne. This place is undeniably worth the trip. While the church is stunning from the outside, a seemingly out-of-this-world building, the interior is breathtaking. The sheer size and utter emptiness. The verticality and majesty of the walls, lightened by beautiful stained-glass windows, moved us. Recovering from such beauty, we set off again, following the Moselle. This first stretch of today’s itinerary isn’t particularly interesting, and thanks in part to a wind pushing us at over 30 km/h, we arrive fairly quickly at the double border with Germany and Luxembourg. Here, we choose to ride the Luxembourg side of the river’s cycle path, which begins practically at Schengen, where the famous treaty on the free movement of goods and people between the signatory nations was signed in 1985. We follow the cycle path to Remich, where we planned to stop, but given the prices, we cross the bridge over the Moselle and go to sleep, much more economically, on the German side in Nennig. The Moselle wine region is among the most important in all of Germany, and its wines are considered among the most prestigious. Another feature it is famous for is the steepness of its terrain. on which the rows of vines grow. In some sections, the gradient reaches as much as 65°. Riding the bike path along the river, we can’t help but marvel at how local farmers can work on such slopes. In the early afternoon, we reach Trier . This town is home to the largest Roman ruins in all of Germany. The Porta Nigra, dating back to the second century, is particularly impressive. After leaving Trier, we continue following the Moselle. Riesling vineyards are everywhere. Furthermore, the river begins to meander from this point on. The bends are each more beautiful than the last, and it’s a real pleasure to cycle. This evening, we stop in Longuich and, of course, we’ll sleep in a winery. This evening, we decide to reach Bernkastel, which looks like an interesting town. The road isn’t long, so we can peacefully enjoy the scenery that the Moselle, with its numerous bends, has to offer. The surrounding slopes are always carpeted with seemingly endless vineyards. Having arrived at our destination fairly early, we can dedicate ourselves to visiting this charming village, where the beautiful half-timbered stone and slate houses are dotted with taverns. We even have time to climb to the castle ruins overlooking the village, where there’s a memorable view of the Moselle Valley. Today’s bike path is crowded. It had already begun yesterday, but this morning the road is particularly congested. It’s mostly groups of local cyclists, some quite large, riding in close proximity, difficult to overtake and dangerous to stop. Regardless, today’s journey continues along this wonderful river. One village follows another, and when we come within sight of Belstain, we have to take a small ferry to reach it. This tiny village is enchanting, but perhaps even more so is the owner of the Weingut Hotel where we’ll be staying, who, upon our arrival, shows up with a chilled bottle of Muller Thurgau and three glasses. This morning, we set off for our last day on the Moselle. The bike path continues to be beautiful, and after about ten kilometers, the postcard-like Cochem appears in the distance. Stretching along the river, with the castle dominating just above, it’s a picture-perfect picture. However, when we reach the town, we find it overrun with tourists, so we decide to proceed without stopping. From this point, the Moselle begins to flow smoothly again. The Rhine is now not far away. Following the bike path, we frequently change banks, and just before Alken, we find ourselves on the left, where we can admire the town overlooked by a castle with two towers. It’s 3:00 in the afternoon when we finally reach the Deutsche Eck , located exactly at the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine. This place is deeply felt by the German people. Here, a 37-meter-high statue of Emperor Wilhelm I the Great, responsible for the unification of Germany, stands proud. Between Koblenz and Bingen, the Rhine flows through a deep valley flanked by dark, steep hills. This stretch, known as the Romantic Rhine, has been famous since ancient times for its enchanting landscapes that evoke myths and legends. Today we set out to explore it, and we immediately realize it will be a memorable day. The weather also creates the right atmosphere, with its constant and sudden changes that put us to the test. A few dark clouds are frightening and force us to dress, but soon afterward the sun comes out and melts away the tension. Another characteristic of this region are the castles that stand on the hills. There are countless of them, some in ruins, others perfectly restored. They are signs of a not-so-peaceful past. As we proceed, we realize that between Koblenz and Bingen there is no bridge crossing the Rhine and no lock to stop it. The current is therefore very clear, and the countless barges that travel it have their work cut out to navigate it. Continuing along the river, every now and then a few boats appear on one side or the other. A charming village, whose charming half-timbered houses and proud bell towers seem to have come straight from a fairytale. This marvelous landscape ends right upon arrival in Bingen. Since returning to Germany, we’ve been traveling the roads of the Rhineland -Palatinate region. Mainz is its capital, and today we plan to pass through. The route continues along the Rhine, although today the landscape isn’t as beautiful as yesterday’s stage. We arrive in Mainz on market day, which is particularly lively. From above the stalls, the imposing silhouette of the cathedral, dating back to the end of the first millennium, emerges. Built of reddish sandstone, it represents one of the finest examples of Rhenish Romanesque architecture. In addition, we also visit the church of St. Stephen, famous for its stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall. Once we leave Mainz and its outskirts, the environment becomes more bucolic and soon even wilder. The Rhine is still there to guide us and treat us to beautiful views. This morning we cross the Rhine to get back on the bike path and head for nearby Worms. This is one of the oldest cities in Germany, and the 1,000-year-old cathedral, built in late Romanesque style, dominates its historic center. Worms is also closely linked to the Nibelungenlied saga, and the namesake tower we cross to cross the Rhine is undoubtedly spectacular. Back on the riverbank, we immediately leave it to follow a bucolic dead branch, and shortly after, we come within sight of Mannheim and its sprawling industrial area. After a few kilometers, and crossing the river several times on small ferries, we come within sight of Heidelberg, Germany’s oldest university city. The place is particularly welcoming and perfect for our planned day of rest, a day that also gives us the opportunity to visit the ancient castle that stands on the hill behind the old town. Today is almost a transfer stop. Since yesterday, we’ve been in Baden-Württemberg, with our destination Pforzheim at the foot of the Black Forest, which we’ll have to partially cross tomorrow. Today, however, there was no shortage of interest, particularly the two lowland castles of Bruchsal and Gondelsheim, and the numerous forests that gave us a foretaste of what tomorrow would be like. Furthermore, toward the end of the day, we began climbing toward the highest point of our journey. Today, we’ll be spending the entire day in the Black Forest. This beech and fir forest, among the largest in Germany, is a particularly wild place that occupies the entire western part of Baden-Württemberg. It boasts a wealth of biodiversity and is crisscrossed by numerous dirt and paved roads, ideal for cycling. For most of the day, we’ll be following the cycle path that runs along the Nagold stream. The route offers a succession of enchanting views of the stream and the forest, making it easier to endure the fatigue of a day spent entirely uphill. Even the few villages we pass are beautiful, small, and cozy, with half-timbered houses. They seem to have come straight out of a fairytale. In Calw, thanks to a bronze statue atop a bridge, we discover that this is the birthplace of Nobel Prize winner Herman Hesse. Finally, a steep descent takes us to Horb am Neckar, where we’ll sleep in a half-timbered inn with decorated interior walls. From Horb, we resume following the Neckar, which we had left behind in Heidelberg. The river here is now a lively torrent that, like yesterday’s Nagold, offers some stunning views. The landscape is still characterized by dense woods, but alternating with green meadows, probably used for grazing. We don’t encounter anyone, which further enhances the feeling of being in another time. With yet another climb, we reach the gates of Rottweil. This ancient town takes its name from the famous dog breed. We walk along the main street, past its famous bay windows. Once out of the south gate we continue to climb and finally, after passing 700 m above sea level, a plateau opens up under an infinite sky. We’re finally there, and after a rather demanding day, we’re at the source of the Danube in Donaueschingen, where we’re stopping for the night. Leaving Donaueschingen, the setting immediately becomes idyllic. Perhaps it’s the sunny day or the thinner air due to the altitude, but we already feel like we’re in Switzerland. The climbs, however, are tough and demanding, but it’s the last day and we can bear it all. We reach an altitude of almost 900 meters, the highest point of this trip, and then begin the descent back towards the Rhine. A few kilometers later, we find the signs for the Canton of Schaffhausen. An unmistakable sign that we’re in Switzerland. Schaffhausen arrives quickly, and without wasting time, we’re invited to visit the last wonder of this holiday: the Rhine Falls. Only 23 meters high, at 150 meters, they are the widest on the continent. Beyond the numbers, however, it’s the power of the water and the deafening roar that make this place unmissable.
Un viaggio indimenticabile in bicicletta al centro dell’Europa, attraversando luoghi che sono stati e sono ancora il centro dell’Europa.
Le regioni dell’Alsazia, della Lorena, il Lussemburgo, il Palatinato, la Renania, il Baden-Württenberg ed infine il Cantone di Sciaffusa, sono luoghi antichi e affascinanti dove le varie epoche storiche hanno lasciato segni indelebili.
Tutti i 1400 km di questo viaggio ci hanno regalato emozioni e sorprese.