SI no CONOCES este DESIERTO en ARGENTINA, DEBERÍAS (S25/E42) El MUNDO en MOTO con CHARLY SINEWAN

SI no CONOCES este DESIERTO en ARGENTINA, DEBERÍAS (S25/E42) El MUNDO en MOTO con CHARLY SINEWAN

Uh, uh, uh, uh. Phew! First scare. It’s been less than two hours since I left Purmamarca. Well, this is Purmamarca. Just over 2,000 meters above sea level , and in just a few kilometers I’ve already surpassed 4,000 meters. I’m also going to pace myself a bit because I’m at 4,000 meters, no joke. And although I handle the altitude quite well, it’s also true that sudden changes sometimes affect me slightly. This road is very sandy, I didn’t expect it to be this way, to be honest. Well, I’ve left the first sandy stretch, and I’ll tell you one thing: I’m not at all alert while driving, I mean, I’m feeling down. So I don’t know if it’s because of that, the change in altitude, or simply because I’ve lost the rhythm of the trip. I think the stop didn’t do me any good. I was very much on track. But the truth is, I’m a bit dazed. So, be careful and calm. This is very broken, isn’t it? I mean, nobody passes through here. And driving around like a fool on a sandy road where no one passes— but no one has passed here in a long time, right? —doesn’t seem like a very good idea. This has gotten rocky now, but it’s still sandy. We’re here next to a river that’s almost dry, but not dry. I’ve gotten down to 3800 and I’m still feeling strange, honestly. I’m going very slowly; I don’t feel safe at all. So, when the sand comes, I slow down again because sensations are sensations , and if I have a strange sensation, you have to pay attention to it, right? There’s something there. Uh-oh! Well done. The road is a little rough, but not too rough. I’m the one who’s rough. I’m completely out of focus. Anyway… The World by Motorcycle with Charly Sinewan. Season 25 The Devil. Episode 42 What peace, eh! There’s El Moreno, the town of El Moreno. I stopped to drink water earlier, not for the water itself , but because I also took the opportunity to empty the tank. I’m feeling strange, huh? Maybe it’s the altitude, right? But I’m feeling strange. There’s no one there, huh? Alone, well, there was a man there with cattle. This is the river , which is pretty dry. There’s no one there. Church. And this is the road to the right. Hello. Hello. Okay, so, next destination, Las Salinas. We change paths. Here we continue along a very wide road. Las Salinas are there, the salt flat is there. I join Route 79, which passes by the Salinas Grandes de Jujuy. But I’m not going in. It takes me almost in a straight line to San Antonio de los Cobres. We continue. These are the first kilometers in Argentina, if we ignore the entrance through Jama the other day. And I say this because I’m now heading south, already looking toward Tierra del Fuego and with the commitment not to stray too far, that is, to try to reach this year the southernmost point on the planet accessible by motorcycle, at least on roads. Well, I’m going very fast. I’m going 100 km because I don’t want to go any faster. Well, 110 now. It’s sandy, but gravel, right? Is that what they call this in Argentina? 115. Well, I’m getting a little excited, aren’t I? Well, it seems so. Oh! It’s at 3,500 meters, maybe it was the altitude, yes. Either that or I’m dizzy from spending two days in front of the computer. Curve. Phew! Wow, kid, you come here a little crazy and you go over there, huh? Because here the motorcycle brakes, brakes, what is called braking, not braking for much. It takes a while to stop. Little by little, the mental foggy feeling from the morning is passing, and between fast roads, “Serrucho, I hate you!” Unbearable sawtooth stretches, wide road. When there’s no sawtooth, you hit the gas. And the occasional sandbar. And when a sandbar comes, your ass closes. Like this one, you see? It looks like I’m going to reach San Antonio de los Cobres. much earlier than expected. Wow, guys, this is really fast. I’m going 120 km/h to be cautious, because this is going 140 km/h. In any case, and although it’s definitely too early, I decide to stop and spend the night here in San Antonio de Los Cobres to see the town and, above all, to acclimatize, because I’m going to spend the next few days at a very high altitude, maybe even camp above 4,000 km/h. “As a son of the Puna, receive Mother Puna, all the love of your children and the warmth of our land.” I have no idea what it is, but it’s Mother Puna. Mother Puna probably refers to Pachamama, the earth, so present in Andean culture and to whom, I remind you, I made an offering a few days ago. Partly by popular demand and partly just to try it out, although, as you know, I don’t really believe in this kind of thing. Or at least for now, because when you see what’s waiting for me ahead, I don’t know, it might give you something to think about. This town is called San Antonio de los Cobres. It owes its name to the copper that was here. Before the Spanish arrived, it was already being mined. San Antonio de los Cobres, as you might guess, owes its name to the copper mines, although it’s not the only mineral that has historically been extracted in the area. I don’t know if it’s still being mined; honestly, it doesn’t look like a mining town. It looks like it was, but it’s not anymore. Around the town, there are gold, silver, lead, and lithium mines. Some were abandoned, and others are still being worked today. It’s also famous because it has a train station. But San Antonio de los Cobres is also famous for being the departure point for the Tren de las Nubes (Tren of the Clouds). A train that was closed for construction when I was here 20 years ago. I don’t know if it’s working now, but it’s the Tren de las Nubes (Tren of the Clouds), which goes up to 4,200 meters , and I think there’s a bridge that I don’t know if I’ll be able to see or not. I’ll tell you about the train and the track tomorrow because my plan is to visit the La Polvorilla Viaduct. Quite spectacular, it’s one of the most important railway works, I don’t know if it’s in Argentina or South America or something like that. A mythical and emblematic place that will be part of one of the most spectacular routes of recent times. And that’s it. The truth is, I wasn’t planning on stopping, eh, I was planning on filling up with gas and continuing, but since this morning got so complicated… I don’t know what else. I’m going to find out what else there is to see if there’s anything peculiar about this town. Like a good citizen, I checked the tourist information and I’ve already found out. Copper mining stopped quite some time ago , and now there are apparently gold and lithium mines around here, mostly lithium, I think. And that’s it. About 8,000 people live in the town, making a living from that and a little tourism. And then I found out, it’s called the La Polvorilla Viaduct, it’s 18 km away, maybe I’ll go tomorrow , and it’s an iconic railway bridge, 224 meters long and 63 meters high. The highest point of the Train to the Clouds , which leaves tomorrow at 12 , and which of course I’m not going to do. And no, it’s very nice, but as soon as the sun sets behind it, it’s going to be incredibly cold. Well, we have Ducatank , who’s been sleeping next to a British-registered Ténéré. A Ténéré 250, registered in Salta, a Yamaha XT125 , and there we have a Verys 300 from Buenos Aires, which don’t ride themselves, of course. Good morning from Los Cobres. Let’s see, let’s all get together. Good morning. English is missing, but the English are separate. Well, we’ve had dinner, we’ve had breakfast, we’ve talked, and now, unanimously, they’ve decided they’re going to clean and grease my chain because I’m busy with other things. Do you use it or do you have a protocol? I don’t have one; the protocol is whatever you want. I poured it just like that. You want to pour some… We all come, the whole group. This way I can take more risks. Four for one chain, eh, no joke. Not even at Ducati do they treat you like that, right? Last night watching a Charly video and today cleaning Charly’s chain. The turns of the… Screenwriter. From the screenwriter. Our bike was struggling to stretch it, to lubricate it. This was better. Okay, let’s get a little more, shall we? Although I have the brush; I forgot it upstairs, I have it in the room. Not me, not me, eh. I mean, this was their idea. I would have poured a little there and that was it. Okay, good luck! This guy is English. Bye, guys! Have a good trip. Have a good trip! See you on the road. Bye. We had a biker’s night and tomorrow at the hotel. The Englishman has been traveling for three years, and these guys are from around here. Well, “Tren de las Nubes. Estación” (Train to the Clouds. Station), this way. Nothing, 5 degrees at 10 in the morning. It’s already -12, -13 at night, they just confirmed. So, camping with the gear I’m carrying is already becoming impossible. Oh, look, that’s the Train to the Clouds station. It leaves at 12, I think. It leaves in a little while and goes up to 4,200 meters. Anyway. Today’s minimum destination is a town called Tolar, where I’ve reserved gas. Before that, we’re going to cross a desert, the Devil’s Desert. And from there, in Tolar, the idea is to climb to an abandoned mine and camp, but it’s at 4,000 meters and I don’t think it’s a very good idea, to be honest. The truth is, it’s all ideas because the plan, as always, is that there is no plan and the final say belongs to the scriptwriter. Come on, kid, focus, you’re just getting started. Or Mother Earth, who knows, because I’ll tell you right now that one of the two … There’s already sand. has a big one waiting for us. This is the way to the Viaduct. Are we going, right? I think so, I’m going to go to the Viaduct and I’m going to sleep in Tolar. Decided. I was thinking with the psychologist-helmet what to do. I’m going to see the Viaduct. It’s 15 km. Well, this road, which is like an extra, Opa!, reaches the famous Viaduct, which is a pretty important work of railway engineering. And anyway, I’ll see it today, tell them something , and we continue. That over there, what is it? That’s a mine, right? “Concordia Mine. Hunting prohibited.” Okay. Wow, kid, that’s crazy, right? This is the Concordia Mine, which was exploited for centuries and where there is, or at least there was, silver, lead, and zinc. Is it a sulfur mine like the one above, or something? Apparently, it was permanently closed in 1983 after its galleries flooded , and apparently, it’s still leaking acid and polluting the Concordia stream, a tributary of the San Antonio River. “Private property. Concordia.” And there’s a cemetery here. Don’t get too excited, there’s a “Game Over” going on there. I went out today; yesterday I was weird, today I went out like crazy. I slept, well, pretty well for 3,800 meters, since from these altitudes onwards I normally sleep so-so. I mean, I sleep fitfully, but I slept halfway well , anyway. I don’t know, the Viaduct must be around here. I don’t know exactly if it’s there or there, but the train track runs through here. Indeed, we’re at 4,200 meters , and we’re going to send our faithful squire “Claudrión” to see what this Viaduct is. I don’t know if the Viaduct is behind there or behind there, but anyway, “Claudrión” will clear up any doubts. Well, here we go. Let’s follow the train tracks until we see if we come across the famous Viaduct, shall we? Look at it! Uh! Wow, kid, how impressive, huh?! It surprised me, huh? Incredible. Uh! “La Polvorilla Viaduct. It’s 224 meters long and 63 meters high. It’s the culminating point of the Train of the Clouds route, one of the most impressive engineering works in the country.” And the Train of the Clouds departs from San Antonio de los Cobres and, well, it passes through here up to above 4200. We’re at 4217 right now. Okay, let’s go. We’ll continue on our route, right? The road is really good and really fast. There was a lithium mine project there, I think. Well, I’m going to take this one, along Highway 51, I think like, I don’t know, 40 km like that and then I’ll turn off towards the Devil’s Desert and then to Tolar. Sand and saw. I hate you so much, saw! Hello, excuse me. Is it better to go to Tolar via this route or via Highway 51? It’s the same. It’s the same. This route is in better condition. It’s better this way. It’s a little longer. This way? Yes, you have about 40 km more. Ah, well, it’s a little. But the road is faster. Faster this way. And here you arrive at a town, yes. Salar de Pocitos, something like that? Yes, to the town of Pocitos. Exactly. You have to go to the town of Pocitos. Okay. Don’t follow the road to the left that takes you to the Salar del Hombre Muerto. Okay. Remember that. That one has a bad name. Perfect. Thank you. Very kind. I was thinking. Thank you. There are two routes, and I had one marked over there via Highway 51, but well, longer, better, faster, I don’t know. It’s just that the bad roads here aren’t fun. If they were bad roads, they would be fun… But the bad roads here mean saws, sand, and you don’t enjoy it; on the contrary, you suffer. So let’s listen. Phew! What a hole there was. What a beautiful road, huh? Wow, kid, how the motorcycle goes backwards. This is pretty spectacular, huh? Among the rocks. 4,400 meters, water on the right. The road is very maddening, but I’m going to be careful. And do these people live here at 4,400 meters or is it just for livestock? It is for livestock, right? What are you saying? Is the river frozen or cold? What are you saying? I want to clear up any doubts like a 5-year-old. I say it’s frozen. But come on, frozen solid. It’s frozen solid. We go down. I continue moving quite quickly towards Tolar Grande, a town where I’ve reserved gas because there’s no service station as such. Serrucho. Altiplano again. 4,200. And because from there on I’m going to be doing a somewhat complex route. Nothing, I walk very fast, very fast. At times it gets a little worse, but sometimes I go 100. “Slow down, School. The kid crossing could be your son.” Don’t tell me that, I’ll get scared. Anyway. From Tolar, the idea is to first go up to La Casualidad. “Tolar Grande 86” “La Casualidad 215” An abandoned mining town at 4,200 meters and where I was planning to camp. That’s where I wanted to sleep today, in La Casualidad, but it’s crazy, really. There are 200 km left, it’s at 4,000 meters. And then I try to reach an old sulfur mine at 5,200 meters. And tonight it was minus 13 at 3,800 meters. I’ve never been to an altitude, much less on a motorcycle. I don’t think it’s going to happen. Well, look, I’m going to stop because I’m going crazy, I get dehydrated, and I don’t realize it. Don’t you think? I have to drink. I’m going fast. There are 80 km left. I’m going to get there super soon. But I’ll be late getting to the mine and taking a leisurely look at it and filming it, because it’s so beautiful. It’s an abandoned village, Sebas told me about it. So I’m late to arrive, fill up with gas in Tolar, go up to the mine, record the mine, I don’t know what , and go down because the idea was to stay in the mine, but it’s 4,000 meters. There’s a church, I can get inside the church. Maybe I can make a fire, but I don’t care, you know? At minus 15 degrees, you have to have the fire all night. My tent is a summer one. There’s a line between adventure and stupidity. I have to admit that I’ve crossed it sometimes, but not this time. Or maybe I have, because I’m very stupid. There it is, the Devil’s Desert. It looks very spectacular, huh. And now, after many crazy kilometers, I arrive at one of the most special landscapes of recent times, the Devil’s Desert , which owes its name to these spectacular reddish colors. A landscape, as you can see, quite special. Could this be salt? Yesterday I was thinking about whether I should have continued, but then I ran into bikers and whatever , and in the end I decided to stay, but the option was to keep going and camp here at 3800 meters . Thank goodness because it’s cooler than 13. I’ve said it 70 times, but it’s true, right? Anyway. Phew! How beautiful, isn’t it? This is very spectacular, really. Very unique, isn’t it? I’m thinking of similar landscapes. Utah seems a bit similar to me, but… But maybe not that much, or maybe it is, I don’t know, honestly, I don’t know what you all think. What they do have in common is the reddish colors, although those mountains in Utah were much rougher than these. What both landscapes do share, from my point of view, at least, is that they are very special and different from almost everything I’ve ridden in these years. Places that make you feel privileged to be here alone and on my own motorcycle. But not that, right? I mean, I mean, man, Utah was almost more spectacular than this because it was so many incredible miles of enormous red mountains and such. Look there, how beautiful, right? Yeah, yeah. This, this is very special, huh. Very different. These reddish colors, those rocks, they kind of look like they’re hand-carved. It wouldn’t have been so easy to hide, either, right? Because there must be some way, right? To hide. Here we go. Look, vicuñas. What a great place to live, huh? Yeah, yeah. This is very beautiful, huh? Very, very, very beautiful. But anyway, I’ll tell you one thing. Let’s go ahead and give it a little gas, right? Wow, this is the most spectacular part, right? Let’s give it a go. Oh my goodness, what a curve to come excited from! Wow, the Devil’s Desert and the devil’s curves! Phew! Oh, how beautiful! I thought I was done, but I wasn’t. Phew! Phew! Phew! You have to have a knack for these curves. Wow, guys, it’s incredible, isn’t it? It doesn’t stop, eh! Damn, guys, that’s crazy! I’m kicking all the time. I don’t know if you can tell, but… It’s really fun, but I’m almost falling all the time, eh? Wow, guy, it just never ends. How beautiful! “Seven turns. Heavy equipment.” It got complicated. There was a sign that said “Seven turns.” Over here, well, I’ve already done two and this one’s three or… Oh! Phew! It caught me completely off guard. Phew! They’re incredibly difficult, eh. Because they have everything, they have a slope, they’re very tight , and there’s sand, a lot of it. “Devil’s Desert.” Impressive, isn’t it? What a great day on a bike, eh? Ever since I entered Chile and stopped to let the rains pass… It’s just tribute after tribute. How crazy! If I had camped, well, not in the middle here, but I could have sneaked in there “tiki tiki tiki” and hidden. But anyway, I insist that I’m going to have to recalculate soon to buy a winter tent or something, I don’t know. So let’s keep going, right? I don’t know how many curves we’ve taken. I don’t know what’s happening to me today, but the truth is I’m going crazy. Obviously, the roads are inviting, and my bike even more so. I mean, the Ducatank has 115 horsepower and it’s a pleasure to hit the gas, but what I’m not aware of yet is that this madness today, combined with many other things, is going to lead me to a complication that could be catastrophic. I’ll give you a clue. On the first day of the route through Chile, the chain came off and got caught on the sprocket, which made me keep hitting it until it came free. Come on. Oh, how beautiful! Is that the Salar in the background? Oh, watch out, I’m going to leave. Then I rode for many kilometers with the wrong tension until I changed the drivetrain, but then it happened that because I hadn’t tensioned it correctly, it came off again and broke the crankcase. You have to have a certain tact! Which, by the way, is now welded together. Dust. And now, as I race through the Devil’s Desert , after many previous kilometers of sawing, where I’ve also been hitting the gas like there was no tomorrow . Phew! Phew! Phew! Phew! It’s dangerous now. Something’s about to break. It’s become like this gravel, or I don’t know what they call it. And here I can’t go as fast because the only way to survive is to accelerate, but if you’re going 100 and accelerate… And the problem isn’t just what’s about to break. Well, if everything works, great, but if it doesn’t, the problem, really, is where it’s going to break. The impact is at 100 and something. So… Conclusion, don’t miss the next chapter. Phew! How awful! To be continued

Comienzo mi recorrido por Argentina, dirección sur y con la idea de nos desviarme mucho para llegar a Tierra del Fuego este año. De Purmamarca a San Antonio de los Cobre y de ahí, al DESIERTO DEL DIABLO, uno de los lugares más especiales que he recorrido en todos estos años.
Y a todo esto, el Guionista nos tiene una buena preparada más adelante…

Charly

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Mi casco: https://nexx-helmets.com/es/cascos/x-wed2-carbon/zero-pro/negro

Estas son las maletas que uso: https://moskomoto.com/

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Comprar “EL mundo en moto con Charly Sinewan”, el libro:
– España: https://amzn.to/2r9rQkK
– Audiolibro: https://amzn.to/3fqag5h
– USA: https://www.amazon.com/Carlos-Garc%C3%ADa-Portal/dp/8408210785/
– México: https://www.sanborns.com.mx/producto/125311/el-mundo-en-moto-con-charly-sinewan/
– Guatemala: https://tienda.sophosenlinea.com/libro/el-mundo-en-moto-con-charly-sinewan_257843