1人車中泊特化型軽キャンピングカーが大幅に進化！夏仕様常設ポータブルクーラー、常設換気扇、外部ゴミ設置【100万円中古軽自動車DIY】

1人車中泊特化型軽キャンピングカーが大幅に進化！夏仕様常設ポータブルクーラー、常設換気扇、外部ゴミ設置【100万円中古軽自動車DIY】

Hello! I’m “Kupio”. The other day, I stayed overnight in this light camper for the first time. I renovated a light camper that I bought second-hand. However, there were some areas for improvement. And thankfully, viewers who watched the video of me staying overnight in the car gave me some ideas for improvements. I’ll borrow your ideas and DIY those improvements today. I’ll make the light camper easier to use. Here are some of the improvements I found during my last stay in the car. The first one was that I couldn’t install the outdoor unit of the cooler. This portable cooler “La Cool” is divided into an indoor unit and an outdoor unit, connected by a hose. This is a type of portable cooler where you only take the outdoor unit outside to use. Normally, you open the door every time to take out the outdoor unit, and use it by clamping the hose with the door. But I’m lazy. So I was planning to put a box I bought at a home improvement center on the cycle carrier and put the outdoor unit inside it. However, with the hose clamped, the door was a little half-open. There’s no problem when the car is stopped. However, I have a bad feeling about driving with the door half-open. I gave up on installing it outside, and left it inside the car while moving, and took it outside when the car was stopped. I received some advice from a viewer. There is iron inside the rubber on the edge. He suggested that if I shaved it down, the door would close. Even though this wiring is thin, it is about 1 cm thick. If you remove the rubber, you can see the iron inside. It certainly seems like it would improve if I shaved it down here. If you shave it down and put the rubber molding back in, it will dent that much. I looked it up and it seems like it can be shaved down with a machine called a mini router. It was on sale on Amazon for 6,580 yen. I bought it. This is my first time using this mini router. I’ll try the process of shaving down the body. If it was a new car, it would be difficult to do that. I bought this car second-hand at a low price. So I can try it without hesitation. And the second improvement point. It’s the drain water of the indoor unit. This is the back side. There is a place to insert the drain water hose here. It was originally plugged. It was inserted like this. After using the cooler, the drain water will accumulate a little under the outdoor unit. Drain the water before moving it. So after using the cooler, I removed this plug, inserted a hose, and put the drain water in a plastic bottle. A viewer suggested leaving the hose inserted and putting the plug on. If you leave the plug on, you can get the drain water out just by twisting the plug. It saves a lot of work. I also bought this on Amazon. I bought a valve that can stop the water. I will attach this and turn it so that I can get the drain water out and stop it. The tools and equipment I bought on Amazon this time are detailed in the description. The third is a rain protection for the window panel. This is the intake and exhaust for the range hood. This is the intake and exhaust for the range hood used when eating in the car. It sucks air from this fan and lets it out from here, and takes in air from here. I made it temporarily. There was no problem with the performance. But there is a gap here. Right now I was filling the gap with a sponge that fills the gap in doors, which is sold at home improvement stores. This is what it looks like from the outside. There is a small gap. If rain gets in here, it will get into the car, or the sponge itself will absorb water. We also received good advice from our viewers. We will DIY based on that. If you remove this window panel every time and put it in the door, this gap will disappear. There is no need for that measure. It is a hassle to put the panel on and remove it every time. Since we want to leave it on, we will take proper measures against rain. Next is the noise of the range hood. We actually tried grilling here and found that this is quite useful. The wood is exposed. We will finish it by sticking a remake sheet. It was loud. It looks like this. It makes a loud noise. A viewer said that it would be reduced if we eliminated the resonance inside the box. We have a rubber sheet between the fan and the wood, but the inside is hollow. We will fill the gaps and spaces with insulation and other materials. Next is the shade. I thought it was unnecessary because there are curtains all over. However, a lot of heat comes in. We used this “La Cool” to cool the inside of the car. Heat was coming in from this area. As expected, there are gaps and spaces with just curtains. I’m going to make a tight-fitting shade. I have some leftover heat-shielding sheeting from when I insulated the entire interior. I’m going to use it to make a shade in the shape of a window. I think this “La Cool” will cool the inside of the car even on hot days. Next is the raised platform. This is where you take off your shoes and climb up in socks or barefoot. However, since I made this, the bed mat won’t fit. This is a bed mat with legs like this. I put it here when I go to sleep. It became unstable as it rose up and couldn’t fit in. It’s easy, but I’m going to cut it off by the amount that rose up. Next is the garbage problem. I made a garbage can under the refrigerator. It slides open. Right now, I have two garbage cans that I made out of cardboard. This has quite a lot of capacity. It’s a small minicar, so I’m glad I made this garbage can space. I’ve just moved my luggage out of the way. If I put something here, this won’t open. So I can’t use the garbage can. A lot of garbage comes out when I’m cooking. I cook with it open and put the garbage in. That’s fine at the time. When you’re relaxing or throwing away tissues, you need to open it, throw them away, and close it, which are three actions. I’m thinking about how to make it easier. There’s a little space here at the entrance. It’s about the size of two or three palms. I’m going to make a trash can here. I want to attach a handle so that you can pull it and throw away the trash immediately. If you think about it, you also need to pull it, throw it away, and push it, so it takes three actions. But this side is a little far away and you can’t put anything there. I want to be able to throw away small trash and tissues immediately here. I’ll try to improve the above points as much as I can. The problem with this DIY is the mini router. This is my first time cutting the body. Will I be able to do it well? And even if I cut it well, I’m worried about this hose. I’m worried about whether the piping will pass through and lock it. I cut it, but it would be the worst if the auto-lock didn’t work and the lights inside the car were left on, just like before. I hope it works. First, I’ll start by installing the outdoor unit. Originally, I had an outdoor storage box that I bought at a home improvement store on top of the cycle carrier. I put a La Cour outdoor unit inside the box. It was placed and secured like this. I then drilled holes in this storage box. Here and here. It was used to exhaust air from the outdoor unit and to take in air from the outdoor unit. However, it seems the holes were small, and the unit was making a strained noise. So I decided not to put the outdoor unit in this box. I placed a board directly here and placed the outdoor unit on it. Then I put the outdoor unit cover on top. If you’re going to place the outdoor unit directly on top, it doesn’t need to be this wide. This is an option for the cycle carrier, and it was a stand on which a large storage box can be placed. I will remove this for now. I will attach the original genuine cycle carrier. It will be a little shorter. The replacement is complete. This stand was originally attached, so it is quite short. I will place a board on top of this and secure it, and place the outdoor unit of “La Cool” on top of this. The problem is where to run this piping. It doesn’t matter if it is under this, on the side, or on the other side. It is long enough to reach the rear cycle carrier. It seems best to run it from the side, since the width is shorter sideways than from underneath, and you don’t have to bend the hose as much. The piping will remain running even when riding. It is not good to protrude to the side of the body. That’s why I want to run it under here. There was a small gap between this bed and the door, so I will run it through here. When I removed the rubber from the weather strip, I found iron. I will grind this down. I also peeled off the floor, and found that the vinyl cover of the floor was attached with double-sided tape. The floor is made of three layers of boards about 12 mm thick. Under that board is the iron body. I’m going to cut this with a mini router. It would be better to cut the wood above it as well. Pass it through like this. Think about where to pass it through. After passing it through like this, the door will close like this, so the hose will be L-shaped. I’m not sure if this is a problem. I’ll just have to try it once. When cutting around here, there is the vinyl material on the surface and the wood and iron inside. Instead of taking it apart and cutting it, I’ll cut it all together from the top. I’ll cut about the width of the hose plus 1 cm. Now I’m going to cut it with a mini router. I found an extendable one, so I’ll attach it. It’s pretty narrow, so I’ll cut it with this. Now I’m going to cut it. I’ll put on goggles and a mask because it might fly off. Now I’m going to cut it. The plastic and wood parts were cut quite easily. Mini routers are great. It seems like it will be useful when you want to cut these small parts. Now I’m going to continue cutting. Cutting with one hand was hard on my hands, so I’m going to stop using the extension hose and cut it directly. The wooden part has been cut down for the most part. Next, I’m going to cut the iron part of the body. I tried cutting it a little. It’s been scraped off well. Now I’ll keep scraping it like this. It’s been scraped off. The iron was scraped off without any problems. It was scraped off little by little, by going back and forth many times. The width is about 7 cm. I scraped off about 1 cm at the back. Now I’ll put the weather strip back and try to close it. I hope it closes. It locked. !
It didn’t close. The remote control won’t lock. It’s in the same state as before. I’ll try scraping it off some more and adjusting it. It closed. I was relieved. In the end I scraped it off some more and cut the weather strip. And when I closed it tightly, the remote control locked. After all, if you pass it through here, you have to bend the hose at 90 degrees. That’s why it repelled and didn’t close. So I scraped it off as much as possible to soften the 90 degrees. This area is exposed, so I’ll sand it down. I’ll protect the air conditioner hose with a thin rubber sheet. I’ll paint it the same color to prevent rust. While it’s drying, I’ll cut the board that will be the base under the outdoor unit. I cut the board to be placed under “La Coeur”. I drilled holes so that the drain water can flow smoothly. I will show you how to fix this board. Normally, you put a bicycle tire on it and lock it here. I put this square piece of wood here. It is secured with a belt. I will fix it with this. It will be fixed both here and here. I will place this piece of wood on top and drive in the screws. If it is secured like this, you can remove the band and remove everything. It is stable. It looks like it will be firmly fixed if I drive in the screws. There is now space here, so I will put another board on it. I have this small box left over, so I will put it here. I will use this as a trash can. This side of the board is waterproof. This side is normal wood, so water will seep in. This is an oil-based lacquer spray I bought at the 100 yen shop. I will paint it with this. I will let it dry. Meanwhile, the paint on the parts of the body that I carved has dried, so I will remove it. I will pass the air conditioner pipes through here. I will stick this 1mm rubber to prevent scratches. I put the weather strip back. Keep this cut part. In the winter, we don’t use the air conditioner. When you no longer use the air conditioner, take this and put it here. This completes the piping work. Just close the door to match it. In the summer, we will install “La Cool”. So I don’t think the rear door will open. It will be quite heavy, so I don’t think it’s practical to open it too much. So I will finish the work to be done from the back. This is the drain water of the indoor unit of “La Cool”. Remove this plug and insert the attached hose. All that’s left is to attach this opening and closing plug and let the drain water out. However, this hose was surprisingly thin and the opening and closing plug did not fit. I have already ordered it from Amazon, so it is expected to arrive today. I will install this when it arrives. It’s okay. It’s closed. I left it for a while and the paint dried. I will install it. I ran out of brown spray halfway through, so I changed it to black. It was a good choice to make it black. It looks tighter. I tied the end, but there was a little space. I overlapped this 3mm rubber to prevent it from shaking. The outdoor unit is fixed with this belt. Attach two here. And one on the side. Pass this board underneath before fastening it with the screws. I think this will keep the belt from slipping. I shaved this down a bit. This will stop it from slipping sideways. I laid a 3mm rubber mat to cushion the impact. You can see the drain water hole at the bottom. It’s fine. I fastened it with a belt to prevent it from slipping sideways. It’s now firmly fixed. This outdoor unit is completely waterproof, but I’ll put a cover on it just in case. It’s an outdoor unit cover for a normal household air conditioner. I’ll put this on. Since it’s for household use, the size doesn’t fit at all. So I’ll fold it and staple it to make it compact. I’ll make sure it fits tightly. It’s a temporary one for now. It’s very handmade, but I’ll try it out with this. To prevent the cover from flying off, I’ll attach the bottom, sides, and vertical sides to the cycle carrier. The front was just opened with Velcro. This is how the air is let in. It was mesh, but I cut it to be more efficient. There is a hot air outlet on the side. I made it open here too. It can be opened and closed with Velcro. This is the part that holds the bicycle from above, which was originally attached to the cycle carrier. I’ll hold it in place with this. I don’t think the wind will close the cover. I think the cooling efficiency will improve if I put an insulating sheet on top. I think this will keep out most of the rain. However, there is a small gap. Normally, when I’m not in the car, I put another cover over it. I think this will keep out the rain. So when I arrive at the car camping spot, I can just flip this over and use the cooler. It would be best if I could use the cooler without doing anything else. I think it would be fine with this amount of effort. It’s pretty close to ideal. I’ll check the operation once. After 2-3 minutes, the cooler compressor started to turn. The power consumption is 250W. Cold air is coming out. Warm air is also coming out from here. I was able to use it without any problems. I’m glad. I feel safe. While driving, close the lid and press it from above to lock it here. This way, even if the belt loosens, it won’t jump up. After all the DIY for this improvement is finished, we will do a thorough driving test. Next, we will fix the trash can. Here is how to fix this trash can. Drive four screws directly into the tree below. It is quite sturdy because it is screwed at four points. I don’t think it will come off. It ‘s fine as it is, but I’ll wrap a belt around it just in case. This completes the installation of the rear cycle carrier, the outdoor air conditioner unit, and the trash can. There wasn’t much excess wiring for “La Cool”. It’s not hanging down. I’ve used a cable tie to keep it from moving around. This cable tie is removable. So it can be removed easily. It’s pretty nice. It’s starting to look like a camper. I sometimes see people installing this trash can box on light cars. However, I don’t think there are many people who install outdoor air conditioner units on light cars. It’s becoming an interesting light camper. The water stop valve I ordered from Amazon has arrived. I’ll install it right away. You can open and stop it with this lever. This is the open state now. You can see the other side. This will allow the water to flow. Then turn the lever to close it. This will stop the water. Previously, I inserted the end of the hose into a plastic bottle and put it here so that drain water could leak while driving. I’ll attach a plug around here along the way so that if there is drain water accumulated after using it, I can open this plug myself and let it flow. The indoor drain drainage system is complete. A hose is connected to the drain outlet of the “La Cool” indoor unit. This is the plug here. It’s closed now. If you turn this lever to this side, the water will pass through. The end is currently stopped with a hook. Water comes out from here. You can either put it in a plastic bottle as it is, or insert it into this hose, connect it, and leave it behind. So it usually feels like you’re driving with it closed. When the drain water of this indoor unit accumulates to a certain level, the pump inside will start to work and it will go through this hose to the outdoor unit and be discharged outside. Until that certain amount accumulates, a little water will be accumulated. If you turn off the power before the pump starts working, there will still be drain water remaining in the indoor unit. At this time, we will process the drain water of the indoor unit we just made. Next, we will improve and finish the window panel. A magnetic cover is temporarily attached. Attach it firmly so that it does not come off. The most important thing is to waterproof it. Since this is wood, rain will seep in. We will improve this gap to prevent rain from entering. The outside of the window panel will be made of polycarbonate purchased at a home improvement store. This is highly weather-resistant on both sides, so it is resistant to rain. It also has UV protection. There is an air layer inside, so I think it will have an insulating effect. It is quite hard, so it is more durable than plastic cardboard. However, it seems difficult to cut. There were two layers of plywood inside. The grain of this wood is vertical, so it was quite soft and flexible. I thought I would cut it horizontally. However, since the outside will use the same polycarbonate as before, I think it will be stronger. This door is slightly curved, so we will install it by fitting it closely to the curve. We will attach a remake sheet to match the furniture on this side and match the color. I will explain how to install the current window panel. It is installed with a magnet, not double-sided tape. Let’s try removing it once. A magnet that can be screwed inside is attached like this. A piece of plywood was placed on top of it to hold it down. The other side is the same. So it can be easily removed as it is. Now I opened and closed the door many times with force. It didn’t move at all, so I think it’s fine. Cut the polycarbonate little by little with a utility knife. Attach the remake sheet to the window panel. Apply primer to prevent the remake sheet from peeling off. I attached a black remake sheet to the polycarbonate side. I will carefully paste it together. Attach the louver. The window panel is complete. There are a few wrinkles, but that’s not a problem. I attached the louver to the back. This is the polycarbonate. I think the waterproofing effect is perfect. And we added a louver here. It was only here before. This is the intake vent. This is the exhaust vent . This is the exhaust vent for cooking smells and smoke. We installed this. We only cut this part. It’s attached like this. This is because we didn’t want to block the air coming out too much. And we made sure that the air comes out on this side and doesn’t get sucked in again. We made it come out like this and only half of it flows to this side. So the air comes out like this and goes to the side like this. So this side is intake and this side is exhaust. It prevents the air from circulating. Now we’re going to try fitting it in. First we insert the magnet here. Then we fit it in the window. There’s just an iron part. The body and the magnet stick strongly to each other. We put this screw on top of it and press it down. This presses the window panel strongly against the window. These six magnets on the side are working to stick the window panel to the door. This makes it tightly attached. We’ve attached this large, powerful magnet underneath as a spare. Even if a downward force is applied, this magnet will keep it from falling down. Even if you close the door quite hard like this, it won’t move at all. I think it’s fine. I made it the same color as the other furniture, so it looks more unified. The outside is also black, so I don’t think it stands out too much. However, the polycarbonate is a little shiny, so it reflects quite a bit. The waterproofing performance is perfect. All that’s left is this gap. I’m going to fill the problematic gap with rubber or gap tape. If you measure the gap, it’s about 20 mm in front. It starts to widen from around here and becomes 23 mm. This side is also 23 mm. The front side of the panel is about 20 mm. The back side needs to fill the gap of about 23 mm. This is what I used before. It’s a type that fills the gap with sponge and bristles. I was sticking this on. I got some advice from a viewer in the comments. He said, “I think rain won’t get in if you stick out the rubber tongue.” That’s why I bought something like this. It’s a laundry tub. It’s a type of rubber tongue that fills the gap. It’s soft rubber. I’ll open it. It’s quite soft. I think it can flexibly respond even if the window goes up and down. This is what I imagine it looks like. Attach it to the window panel with double-sided tape. Stick it out a little like this. That way rain will never get in. If you try it once and there are no problems, paint it with black paint because the white stands out. It seems there is a paint for rubber. Even after pasting this, there is still a little space underneath. I will attach the previous one as well to double up and prevent rain. I will try to close the window with this. The window will not close. It is being pulled and turned over. It was only a temporary fix, so there is not much double-sided tape. However, when the window goes up, it is pulled and peeled off. I lowered the window. This is how I would normally like to use it. However, when closing the window, it seems that the friction between the rubber and the glass is strong and it is pulled. I will cut off the part that is sticking out a little. I will cut only the part that is sticking out. I have opened and closed it several times, but so far it has not come off. When I actually use it, it will be in this position. It is a little tricky. There will be a gap. It might be better to double it. What should I do? I’m in trouble. I think it would be fine to raise it up to this extent. Now I have raised it up to the extent that it is hidden. There is a small gap. This is fine for rainy days. Since there is a gap, it seems that it will be possible to ventilate without any problems if you use it with the air volume set to “weak”. I made it so that I could see the position of the window on a sunny day and a rainy day. This completes the rain protection for the window panel. As a result, I only had to attach waterproof polycarbonate to the surface. I think it’s simple and hard to break, so I’ll use it like this. And I added two more sponges to fill the gap here to make it triple-layered. I don’t think this will stop bugs from getting in. I don’t think air will leak through the gap in the window. Next, I’ll improve the ventilation fan of this range hood. First, I’ll put a remake sheet on it to make it beautiful. It will be integrated with the furniture. The ventilation fan made a loud noise when I set the airflow to “medium” and “large,” so I’ll improve that as well. I’ve already taken measures by placing a rubber sheet between the fan and the wooden box. I’ve changed the washers on the four screws that hold the fan in place with screws to washers that don’t transmit vibrations easily. A comment from a viewer told me that I should reduce the resonance inside the box. I’ll put some insulation inside. This is the perfect barrier for the remaining insulation. I’ll try filling it in. First, I’ll check the noise level in the current state. I’ll maximize the airflow. The maximum airflow is 70dB. It’s noisy. Next, we will check the “medium” airflow. It was 65dB at “medium” airflow. We put in insulation just enough to fill the space without packing it too tight. Now we’ll put the box back and test it. Now we’ll test it at “strong” airflow. The “strong” airflow was unchanged at 70dB. Let’s try changing the airflow to “medium”. The “medium” airflow was also unchanged at about 65dB. It turns out that the cavity is not the problem, but the fan itself is noisy. This is a powerful fan with DC12V. It seems that it will be quieter if we lower the V a little more, or use a fan with larger blades to reduce the airflow. Now we’ll use it. Now we’ll stick the remake sheet. It’s installed. It blends in. If you look closely, you’ll see that there are some parts that haven’t been pasted. But this is fine. The power is on. The fan works. Next, we’ll improve the raised floor. First, we’ll cut the legs of the extension mat. I think this will be done quickly. We’ll make a storage like a trash can underneath this. I made a box and attached a sliding sheet to the bottom of the box so that it can be pulled out. The storage next to the raised platform is complete. It looks like this. It’s smaller than I thought. I thought about using it as a trash can, but that might be difficult. I’ll think about how to use it while actually using it. The sheet attached to the bottom is a sliding sheet for furniture. Just stick this on and it will slide smoothly. If it’s this light, you don’t need a sliding rail. Finally, I’ll make the shade. For the shade, I’ll use this metal sheet that I had left over from the interior insulation. The surface is an aluminum sheet. And the inside is insulation. And finally, there’s another aluminum sheet. It’s the perfect function for a shade. I’ve only had curtains up until now, so I think it will make a big difference. This is the only task I’m not good at. But it’s essential for a comfortable car camping experience, so I’ll do my best until the end. I’ve finished one. I made it a little larger, so it fits perfectly and can’t be removed. Next time I have time, I’ll attach the remake sheet. Now I’ll make the rest. If it fits too tightly, it’s difficult to remove, so I made a string with the leftover remake sheet. This makes it easier to remove. I think the insulation of this metal sheet will make the portable cooler “La Cool” cooler even more. I’m looking forward to seeing how effective it is. The improved version is complete. Thanks to everyone’s comments, I’m getting closer to my ideal light camper. Thank you so much. I really like it. I’m especially happy about the cooler. There’s no need to prepare it, and it can be used like a home cooler. I’m glad I was able to realize this outdoor unit. I was quite worried about cutting the body, but I’m glad it went well. Mini routers are convenient. I want to go on a trip with this car soon. Normally, we go to cool places at this time of year, but on the contrary, we can go to hot places. I’m going to prepare now and go on a long-term car camping trip with this improved version. The cooler will be used for a long time with a 600Ah lithium battery, which is super large capacity for a light car. The battery is charged with a 440W solar panel and a driving charger. How many days can we travel without an external power source in midsummer? I think we will be able to publish the state of the trip next time. Thank you for watching.

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◆動画チャプター
00:00 オープニング
00:33 前回の車中泊で見つかった改善ポイント
06:48 ラ・クール室外機設置
23:39 窓パネル改良バージョン製作
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